Grow beautiful garden not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to choose the right seedlings and correctly place them on the site. Planting fruit trees and shrubs is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn. Seedlings need not only be properly planted in open ground, but also choose the most suitable place for them with good soil, sufficient lighting and protection from drafts.

This article describes in detail the features of planting fruit trees and shrubs, the rules for choosing and preparing a site, and photos and videos will help to carry out this procedure correctly.

Planting fruit trees

well maintained orchard- this is not only a wonderful decoration for your summer cottage, but also a rich source of vitamins.

It will take a lot of effort and time to grow it like this. And our article will also equip you with the necessary baggage of knowledge and rules that will help in cultivating an orchard.

Rules

Sometimes it happens that the seedlings were High Quality, and the pits were prepared in time and appropriately, and the garden still does not start to grow. Most often this comes from ignorance by novice gardeners of the rules for placing seedlings. It is their strict observance that ensures that all your efforts and costs invested in the future garden will not be in vain.

Landing fruit and berry trees and bushes are held so(picture 1):

1. The soil is prepared in advance, for example, for spring planting- in the fall, and provides for loosening the soil and fertilizing.
2. Immediately before being transferred to the ground, the seedlings must be placed in water for several hours in order to root system had the opportunity to make a certain supply of moisture.
3. Damaged or too long roots should be trimmed smoothly.
4. The roots of the seedling should be freely placed in the hole.
5. It's not enough just to dig a hole right size: it is also necessary to loosen its bottom and lay a layer of compost seasoned with fertilizer on it.
6. It is necessary to drive a support stake into the dug hole from the leeward side.
7. The soil that remains from digging the hole is mixed with compost, mineral and organic fertilizers, sand. This substrate is used to fill the hole after planting the tree.
8. Seedlings are placed in the hole strictly vertically. If a tree is grafted, then the grafting site should be located above ground level at a height of 10 cm.
9. During planting, the pit is filled with prepared soil evenly, compacting it and conducting intermediate watering.

After planting the tree, it is necessary to form a watering circle. To do this, around the entire circumference of the hole, a mound is made in the form of a roller 5-7 cm high, and the trunk circle itself is mulched with organic matter (rotted manure, straw, raw compost). The planted tree must be watered abundantly and tied to a peg.

Peculiarities

If you are going to lay a garden, you should start with tilling the soil in the selected area: carry out deep loosening of the soil and remove weeds, because in loose soil, seedlings quickly grow and begin to bear fruit much earlier. Then you need to decide on the size of the holes.

Note: For annual plants, holes are dug with a depth and width of 50-60 cm, for two-year-olds you will need a hole 110-120 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep. If the soil is heavy, then 15-20 cm are added to all sizes.

If the soil has an increased level of acidity, it must be limed. For fertilizer, organic and ash top dressings are used. It is not recommended to use fresh or half-rotted manure, because with a lack of air in the soil, it decomposes and releases harmful substances that poison the entire plant.

Where to plant fruit trees

When choosing a place for fruit crops, they pay attention to the relief, the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater, and the possibility of protection from the wind. On my own suburban area give preference to a place with good illumination, which is not flooded by groundwater. So, the maximum standing height of groundwater for apple and pear trees is 1.5 m, for cherries and plums - 1 m. If groundwater is high, drainage will have to be done (Figure 2).

It is known that gardens grow best on gentle slopes, but flat laying is not so effective. It is not recommended to plant a garden in hollows due to stagnation of cold air and excess water in them.

Which side of the world to plant fruit trees

An important role is played not only by the fact when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring or autumn, but also the side of the world where the garden will be located.

Experienced gardeners advise planting fruit trees on the south, southeast and southwest sides of the site.

Fit Types

The correct arrangement of plants in the garden, that is, the type of planting, most directly affects the survival rate of seedlings. Therefore, it is so important to imagine it in all details before starting the laying of the garden. It is also necessary to calculate the distances between seedlings. The interval between them should not be less than the height of mature trees. It is in such conditions that plants will more efficiently pollinate and bear fruit. It is also known that more fruits are produced on the side branches, so the crowns of fruit trees should be shaped so that they grow in width (Figure 3).

However, you should be aware that in an arrangement that is too sparse, fruit trees are more susceptible to sunburn and freezers, so they grow much worse. In this case, so-called “seals” are planted between tall fruit crops, that is, undersized fruit crops, for example, cherries or plums. They are not as durable as apple and pear trees, and therefore cease fruiting after 20 years of life and can be harvested, since the crowns of tall trees will have had time to fully form and grow by that time.

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring

Timely planting of seedlings of fruit trees in the spring is important not only for their survival, but also for the subsequent growth and development of plants. The question arises when it is better to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring.

Since changes in nature occur very quickly, the air temperature rises, the soil dries quickly, so the best time for the procedure is early spring, although in the southern regions it can be produced in the fall. However, a culture such as cherries often freezes during autumn planting, so it should be planted only in spring. At the same time, the sooner a tree is planted, the better and faster it will take root.

How to choose a place to land

When choosing a place to place fruit crops, you should pay attention to several factors: the depth of groundwater, illumination and the presence of drafts. So, groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 1 m. Otherwise, trees will have to be placed on mounds 60-120 cm high.

It is known that fruit trees need a lot of sunlight and heat, so it would be wise to choose a site that is well lit by the sun, preferably on the south side of the site. In addition, it should be noted that young trees are afraid of drafts, so you should try to place a young garden under the protection of buildings. Experienced gardeners recommend not planting seedlings in the same place where fruit trees used to grow. The wasteland area left after uprooting the garden must be sown with meadow or legume grasses for several years or completely change the soil in the pits.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring time

Spring planting should be carried out as early as possible, the determination of which depends specifically on the seedling and weather conditions.

In any case, the work should be completed before the buds bloom on the trees (seedlings). The survival and development of culture in the future depends on this.

Planting fruit trees in spring: video

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring and how to do it correctly, you can see in the video clip. Its author will give valuable practical advice for planting, which are sure to be useful to beginners and experienced gardeners.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

Although spring planting is most commonly practiced, autumn planting also has its advantages (Figure 4). For example, in autumn it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since it is possible to see the fruits that a certain variety produces. In addition, seedlings planted in the fall do not require much trouble; watering in dry weather will be enough. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.

Most often, autumn procedures are practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not threatened with hypothermia due to mild winters. However, one should be aware of the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Severe frosts and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only lead to damage to seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise against planting fruit crops such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, cherry, almond and cherry in the fall.

Timing

Optimal timing autumn planting they call the end of September - the month of October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should be aware that these dates are rather arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.

Therefore, it is still better to focus on the condition of the seedlings. The best time for planting is the dormant period, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.

Gardens are laid in areas with different topography, groundwater levels and illumination. However, there are certain rules that must be followed when planting a garden, regardless of its location.

It must be remembered that improperly planted trees take root and grow poorly, which can lead to their death.

Rules

Planting fruit trees is carried out in accordance with certain rules, which not only ensure the survival of plants, but also improve the volume of fruiting in the future.

The basic rules for planting fruit and berry crops include several important points(picture 5):

1. Pits must be prepared two weeks before the planned planting. At the same time, their size depends on the quality of the soil, but should not be less than 50-60 cm in depth and width.
2. When digging holes, the soil is laid out in two parts: the upper fertile layer and the lower, less fertile, separately. The bottom layer is enriched with nutrients by adding compost to it. The use of manure for this purpose is not recommended, since even in a rotted state it can damage the bare roots of plants.
3. The bottom of the pit must be loosened to improve air access to the roots of the plant. If the soil is sandy, then a layer of clay 15 cm thick is laid out at the bottom of the pit, which will retain the necessary moisture.
4. A few days before planting, the pits are filled with fertilizers (2-4 buckets of humus, phosphorus - 200 g, potassium chloride - 100 g, wood ash- 1 kg per pit measuring 60-100 cm). All fertilizers are mixed with the soil, which is intended for backfilling the pit. If the pit was dug and filled in the fall, then this work is not carried out in the spring.
5. Before placing the seedling in the center of the pit, it is necessary to drive a stake 5-6 cm thick and 1.3-1.5 m high from the leeward side.
6. Planting material must be carefully examined, cut off all damaged or diseased branches and roots.
7. You can keep the seedling in a container with water for 1-2 days so that its root system accumulates enough moisture for fast healing. It is also recommended to dip the root in a mash of clay and manure (clay, mullein, water in a ratio of 1:2:5), which will ensure good contact of the roots with the soil.

Immediately before planting, a mound of soil seasoned with fertilizer is poured into the bottom of the pit, then a seedling is placed on it from the north side of the stake and the roots are straightened. The pit is covered with a fertile layer of earth removed when digging the pit, compacting it and regularly shaking the seedling. This is done so that voids do not form between the roots. Ultimately, the root collar of the seedling should be slightly above the level of the soil in the garden in order to catch up with it after watering.

After planting along the diameter of the pit, the soil is poured with a roller of small height, and the circle itself is watered with 5-6 buckets of water. The tree itself must be tied to a stake.

The trunk circle must be mulched with organic material to prevent the formation of a surface crust and help retain moisture.

Peculiarities

When choosing seedlings, it would be useful to know their age, because this significantly affects the survival rate of trees. For example, apple and pear seedlings should be 2-3 years old, while cherry and plum seedlings should be 2 years old. When deciding on varieties, heed the advice of experienced gardeners.

Note: Arrange the plants in the garden in rows at a certain distance from each other. So, pears and apple trees are planted at a distance of 6-8 meters, and cherries and plums - at a distance of 3 meters between tall fruit trees and 3-4 meters between rows. You can also take aisles with currant or gooseberry bushes. It will be great if the rows of the garden are located from east to west. So they are better illuminated by the sun in the morning.

To mark out a plot for a garden, you first need to draw its plan, where to provide for the boundaries and arrangement of rows, paths and flower beds (Figure 6). On the ground, stakeout is carried out using a rope, tape measure and pegs. The rope is needed to determine and indicate the distances that will be respected during landing. It is stretched along the future row, and with the help of knots or scraps of fabric, you mark the landing sites. Here it is necessary to ensure that the rows are even. It is not only beautiful, but also easy to care for.

Planted trees are recommended to be tied to stakes to protect them from excessive swinging. To do this, use the usual bast, which must be fixed on a support in the form of a figure eight, so that the seedling does not damage its tender young bark on the stake.

In addition, after planting a tree, you need to cut its branches. At the same time, strong shoots must be shortened by half, and weak ones - a little less. As a result of pruning, the ends of the skeletal branches should end in the same horizontal plane. The central shoot is cut so that it is 20-30 cm higher than all the others. Both the lateral and central branches are cut above the outer bud.

Planting shrubs can be done both in spring and autumn. All work in the spring begins after the snow melts and the soil thaws, and in the fall - before the start of frost.

Rules

Planting shrubs, as well as planting trees, is carried out according to certain rules(Figure 7). First of all, start with soil preparation and planting material, and also determine the compatibility of the soil and selected plants. If the soil does not meet the requirements of a particular shrub, it is necessary to carry out a set of agrotechnical measures to improve the soil.

Shrubs are planted in specially prepared pits, the depth of which should correspond to the height of the plant's root system. In this case, attention should be paid to the level of occurrence of groundwater. If they come too close to the ground surface, the planting hole should be 15-20 cm deeper than the standard one in order to be able to arrange drainage. A layer of soil is poured at the bottom of the pit, then a bush is planted.

Note: It is necessary to ensure that during planting the roots of the plant are straightened and sprinkled with earth. It is recommended to fill up a hole with a seedling 5-10 cm higher general level soil, however, the root neck should not be buried in the ground.

The planted plant must be watered, it is possible with the addition of growth stimulants. Further care consists in feeding, watering and trimming the branches.

Peculiarities

Planting shrubs in the fall is carried out taking into account the characteristics of certain species. So, for raspberries there is no need to prepare special holes, since its annual seedlings are planted in fertilized soil under a shovel. But for currants and gooseberries, shallow pits are needed. These plants are best planted at the age of two.

The branches of shrubs before moving into the ground must be cut so that their length from the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. This procedure will help reduce evaporation, and in currants and gooseberries it stimulates the branching of the bush. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the root system of bushes in a soil or clay mash to protect it from drying out.

Rows of shrubs are marked with a rope, placing them parallel to the rows of trees between the rows. If the planting of shrubs is located separately, then the distance between the rows and in them is one and a half meters. The exception is raspberries, which can be planted at intervals of 70-80 cm. The earth around the planted plants must be tamped and watered at the rate of 1 bucket of water for 4-5 seedlings. After absorbing moisture, the planting circle can be mulched with peat or humus.

Note: It is important to know that raspberry bushes should not be planted deeper than on the uterine plot. But currant and gooseberry seedlings, on the contrary, must be planted deeper than before. This way they can develop additional roots and grow better.

As for strawberries and strawberries, these plants are planted in a slightly different way, since they are herbaceous. So, strawberries are best planted from late July to early September, because late planting will not allow the plant to take root well before the onset of winter. Strawberries are planted between rows of fruit trees or in a separate area. In this case, strawberries are planted in rows, observing an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and rows. After every three rows, it is recommended to leave a passage half a meter wide. If there is not enough space, you can plant strawberries in the aisles of fruit trees or berry bushes at a distance of one and a half meters from them. With such a planting, the plants are arranged in a row with an interval of 25-30 cm. It is important to ensure that the apical bud of the strawberry is not covered with earth. Irrigation rate - 1 bucket for 15-20 plants. To keep the moisture longer, and the surface layer of the soil is not covered with a crust, it is recommended to mulch the plantings with fine manure or peat.

Where to plant shrubs on the site

The indisputable advantage of shrubs is the fact that they not only give tasty and healthy berries, but can also serve as a wonderful hedge. The choice of a place on the site for planting shrubs is carried out specifically for each species. For example, currant prefers moist and well-lit places (between two fruit trees, near a fence or wall of a house). But the wild rose does not tolerate too moist and saline soil, it loves light and heat.

Gooseberries are also afraid of excess moisture, but they tolerate short-term drought well. So, the choice of a permanent place for planting berry bushes should be taken seriously, because the bushes grow quickly, and transplanting a large plant is much more difficult.

Fit Types

There are several types of planting shrubs:

• tree-shrub group;
• Alley;
• Hedge.

The tree-shrub group combines several types of plants (both trees and shrubs) located separately on the site. For this type of planting, plants are selected with similar agrotechnical conditions and according to their compatibility with each other, crown shape, flowering time, etc.

An alley is a group of tall shrubs arranged in a row at the same distance from each other, for example, along a garden path.

If you plant shrubs in one line so that their crowns close, you can get hedge, which looks much more aesthetically pleasing than any fence.

Planting shrubs in autumn

Most often, autumn planting of shrubs is practiced in the middle zone of our country, including the Moscow region. At this time, you can plant such berry bushes: white, red and black currants, chokeberry, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn.

As a rule, autumn planting begins in mid-September, when the life processes of the plant slow down.

Landing dates

In central Russia, the autumn planting of shrubs takes place from mid-September to almost the end of October. In the northern regions, the planting period ends in the first days of October, and in the southern regions, on the contrary, the terms are extended - until the second decade of November.

However, the main indicator of the most optimal time for autumn planting is the onset of the dormant period of the plant. It is possible to determine it at the end of leaf fall. It is important to know that seedlings dug out before the start of the period of biological dormancy are frozen in winter, primarily due to unripened shoots.

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs when planting

Experienced gardeners have long noticed that some fruit trees and shrubs feel uncomfortable next to other plants or, on the contrary, successfully coexist with them. In the first case, the roots of plants can be at the same depth and interfere with each other. There is a situation when one of the plants releases substances into the soil that inhibit the development of others. Therefore, when planning the planting of fruit and berry plants, do not be too lazy to look at their compatibility table (Figure 8).

For example, apple trees can get along with almost any horticultural crops except for rowan. Red and black currants do not tolerate neighborhood with each other and with raspberries, since its root system inhibits the neighboring plant. For this reason, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a separate area. Gooseberries cannot coexist with black currants, and they are not friendly with raspberries either.

You will find more information about the compatibility of fruit and berry crops in the video.

Distance to the border when planting fruit trees

When planting fruit trees on your site, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the legislative acts of planting trees in order to maintain good neighborly relations. So, the norms state that the distance from a perennial plant to the border of the site should be at least 3 meters for low trees.

The larger the diameter of the crown, the greater this distance becomes, because the branches and roots of the tree that go beyond your site, the neighbors can rightfully remove without your consent. Bushes can be planted at a distance of 1 meter from the border, and plums, peaches, cherries - 2 meters.

How to transplant shrubs.

If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new one for it cozy place in your garden.

The transplantation of "large-sized" planting material has been practiced in world horticulture for a very long time. The need to transplant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are transplanted if they have grown strongly and there is not enough space for them in this area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

The time is recommended to transplant in spring or autumn when they are at rest. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with curly shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root worse.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable site in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to where it currently grows, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move a bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root ball in dense fabric. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for transplanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting a shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, we water the shrub well so that it is easier to dig it out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig landing pit at the proposed site for the future planting of shrubs. The pit should be twice as wide as the root ball itself. The earth at the bottom of the landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm 100 mulch).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to develop well in the future, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root dressing. If you transplanted a bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. As soon as the shrub takes root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to sum it up: the ideal time to transplant is early spring, as soon as the soil opens up, before the plant has started to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with a cold climate and in areas with clay soil, it is better to plant the plant in the spring. We transplant in the autumn, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plant at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, repot the plants after the soil has dried out. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.

How and when to transplant trees and bushes

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then, “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch), lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting down the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a bowl-type recess to rainwater flowed right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering- cherry and apple trees have taken root!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

Below are other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with your own hands"

When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".

• It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.

When boarding and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root neck in order to avoid the formation a large number overgrowth.

When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest rates of survival are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to transplant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. With an open root system, coniferous plants are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

Even more interesting articles Online:

Transplanting currants to a new place in autumn and spring when possible

In garden practice, often there are Situations that require a currant transplant to a new location. Most often this is due to an error during site selection, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currants.

• Stages correct transplant adult bush
  • Site selection and preparation
• Care after

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in what month?

Which month is better? The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with severe winters with a decrease in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the features of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

spring transplant carried out after complete thawing of the soil, temperature rise to + 1 ° C and until the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.

There are much more favorable factors for the autumn transplantation of currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new place.

In addition, in the currant cells in autumn there are much more nutrients and downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, the shrub Prefer to transplant in autumn. At the same time, it is important to determine the most accurate dates, at least three weeks should remain before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush

The basis of a successful transplant of an adult shrub - right choice places, preparation of soil and shrubs.

Site selection and preparation

Red and white currants are thermophilic plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or south-west direction. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are noted when planting on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are tilled crops that help clear the area from rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed hollows, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

Selected location in early spring dig to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:

• Compost or manure 10 kg;
• Double superphosphate 10 g;
• Potassium chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, a pit is prepared for transplanting: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with a substrate

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for the bush. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases Enough depth 40 cm and width 60 cm. For tall and remontant varieties a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is 1/3 filled with substrate from mixed components:

• The top layer of garden soil from the pit;
• Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
• Superphosphate 300 g (for blackcurrant) 200 g (red, white);
• Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, they dig a hole deeper. and at the bottom they form a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks, not more than 15% of the total volume.

After that The pit is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants inside the pit, all conditions will be created for a comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organics will take on forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause root burns.

Currant transplant:

Preparation of red and black currant bushes

During transplantation, the volume of shrub roots will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currant 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, cut, leaving only areas that are significant for fruiting and development. When planting in autumn, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it, at a height of 30-40 cm, a fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is placed on them.

On top branches also massively form fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub are cut off by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season's crop. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

The productivity of currant fruits is 5 years, It makes no sense to leave obsolete branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches, they should also be removed.

Do not combine pruning shrubs with transplanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces to heal wounds and adapt roots in a new place. This can cause the death of currants.

Can be transplanted elsewhere!

During transplantation, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the trunk circle, retreating 40 cm from the trunk. After that, you need to gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches, cut off the roots holding with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The excavated shrub is placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the landing site.

Further Examine the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. Carry out the disinfection procedure by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the landing hole A mound is formed from the prepared substrate and spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

Also take into account that The root neck of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When transplanting, it must be taken into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

Regarding the cardinal points, currants are placed similarly to the previous place. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

During the backfilling of the roots, make sure that voids do not form., which often cause decay. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.

The surface is compacted and A hole for irrigation is formed around the near-stem circle.. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After that, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or soddy soil.

Care after

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the near-stem circle is maintained in a constantly loose state.. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for good nutrition and root respiration.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the shrub is prepared for winter:

• Clean the near-stem circle from plant residues;
• Lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
• Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• Spraying with fungicides;
• The branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
• They pull the snow up to the bushes.

Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleaned of plant residues, the branches are collected to the center and tied with twine

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Will need regular watering every other day. So that the soil is moistened up to 60 cm deep. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need top dressing. After two weeks, the irrigation time is determined by the state of the soil under the shrub.

The crumbling of the soil into small pieces after squeezing in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases., which is explained by the temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener during this period is complete control over the currant, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.

The right choice of a plant for your site is already 50% of its success in growing. In addition to personal preferences, it is necessary to take into account soil conditions, illumination, and the moisture regime of your site, which will dictate the biological characteristics of the pets you need. After the list of Wishlist has already been compiled, go shopping. This will save you from rash purchases and significantly reduce time.

Give preference to plants that are grown in your area - they are most adapted to your specific growing conditions. Purchase plants that have been grown outdoors, greenhouse shrubs can burn in the sun.

And now you are holding the cherished candidate for pets already in your hands, look carefully - is he healthy, are there any visible mechanical damage, diseases, illegal animals. If possible, consider the root system, pay attention to its integrity and moisture. If the root system is dry, the plant may not take root, no matter how you reanimate it.

If you are buying a containerized tree or shrub, feel free to shake it a bit - the plant should sit firmly in the ground. Also pay attention to the soil, it should be moderately moist and there should be no fungal plaque, mold and insects on its surface. Do not be too lazy to look at the bottom of the container - roots should not break through its holes.

In a high-quality seedling, the crown will be equilateral, the branches should be evenly spaced on all sides, and in one tier the thickness of the branches should be approximately the same.

How to plant a tree or bush

1. Determine the optimal landing site

2. Dig a planting hole

3. Loosen the bottom of the pit

4. Prepare a fertile soil mixture for planting

5. Attach the landing stake

6. Place the seedling exactly in the hole

7. Fill the hole with potting mix

8. Tie the plant to a support

9. Water generously

10. Sprinkle the soil mixture and tamp the near-stem circle

Some landing features

Coniferous plants should have healthy and elastic needles without yellow spots and bald spots. Also important point during the spring planting of conifers is the beginning of the growing season. Under no circumstances should it be transplanted. coniferous plant during the period when you see buds on it, otherwise it will die.

Many plants can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. But especially heat-loving and weakly winter-hardy species are transplanted only in early spring, otherwise they will not have time to properly prepare for winter. Mostly fruit trees and shrubs.

But if it becomes necessary to plant a plant in open ground in the off-season, use planting material in containers. A few days before planting, water the lump abundantly so that it is plastic. Then carefully transfer the plant from the container to the planting hole, without damaging the lump and the integrity of the root system.

Seating preparation

The whole secret proper preparation seat for a tree or shrub is its good location. It is also important to observe the optimal distance between plants, taking into account their size in adulthood. It is not advisable to plant large trees near buildings, as their root system can damage the foundation, and with age, large branches can pose a threat.

Landing sites are first placed with the help of pegs, then pits are dug with a diameter of 20–30 cm larger than the size of the earth coma. The depth of the pit also exceeds the height of the coma by 20–30 cm. To facilitate the penetration of the roots deep into the soil, the bottom of the pit is loosened. Try to separately lay down the fertile layer of earth that you dug out of the hole. Then it is used to prepare the soil mixture. Land from the bottom of the pit is not used for planting.

If necessary, arrange drainage with broken bricks and coarse sand. At the bottom of the planting pit, 15–25 cm of the planting mixture is poured and compacted.

Digging and transporting the plant

The most painless transplant for the plant will be transshipment from the container directly into the planting hole. But if you have planned to transplant a growing tree or shrub to another place, then try to dig it out without damaging the roots. First, pull the branches along the trunk with a rope so as not to accidentally break them, then carefully dig a trench around the plant at a distance of half the crown diameter from the trunk, and gradually get close to the root system while not disturbing the clod of earth. Lay next to the plant polyethylene film, burlap or any other material so that the plant can be moved from place to place without breaking the ground from the roots. If you plan to transfer the plant over a long distance, then it is better to plant it in a container. If this is not possible, and almost all the earth has already crumbled from the roots, wrap the plant with a damp cloth.

Planting trees and shrubs

The plant is carefully lowered into the prepared seat with drainage and planting mixture, while carefully monitoring that its root collar is located slightly below the soil surface, and covered with soil mixture. The soil mixture is prepared from peat, earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Then half fill the planting hole with water, as it decreases, you will notice that the soil is compacted, and again pour the soil mixture on top. The soil around the trunk is tightly trampled. If the root system of your plant is packed in burlap, then it is not necessary to remove it before planting. Under the influence of soil, water and time, it will break down into organic residues and will not interfere with the development of your plant.

Landing Care

Immediately after planting, trees or shrubs should be given maximum attention. Water it regularly and abundantly. Water the plant every day for the first week after planting, then according to biological requirements and weather conditions. Make sure that the soil in the near-stem circle is dense and does not fail. If necessary, add a new one and mulch the soil with peat or tree bark.

During the first year, top dressing is applied 3 times. It is especially important in the spring to feed young plantings with nitrogen fertilizers. They help the plant form green mass and gain energy for vegetation. In autumn, phosphorus should prevail in the fertilizer complex, but nitrogen is minimized, since before winter dormancy it will only harm the plant.

During planting, the tree requires tying up, this will help it gain a foothold in the ground. You can secure the plant with a pole and rope. Make sure that the plant is planted vertically, with any inclination of the trunk, the decorative effect will be lost. The support should accompany the plant for three years, while making sure that the ropes do not hurt the bark and do not grow into the trunk. After this period, the support can be removed. Shrubs usually do not require tying to a support.

After each watering, when the soil dries out a little, the soil around the tree or shrub must be loosened, it is also important to keep trunk circles without weeds.

Natalia Vysotskaya, dendrologist, Ph.D. -X. Sciences.

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