Installing a frame from a metal profile under drywall allows you to make perfectly even ceilings and walls, hide communications and boxes and implement the most daring design projects, the only drawback of this technology is the reduction inner space. With the right approach, all work can be done on your own or with the involvement of a minimum number of assistants. The process begins with drawing up a diagram and calculating the required amount of material, installation begins after the preparation of the surfaces of the walls or ceilings, ideally before the flooring begins.

To assemble the frame for drywall, the following varieties are used metal profile:

Plasterboard sheets are directly sheathed to the most rigid and wide ceiling profile. The remaining varieties are auxiliary and are not always required. PU (corner) is used to strengthen internal or external right angles, PA (arched) - under a round opening or suspended curved structures, without the need for cutting and laborious bending of PS segments.

When assembling and installing frames under the GKL, you will additionally need:

• Straight U-shaped hangers with perforated "lugs" to help fix the ceiling profile and make the frame stable.
• One- or two-level crabs to strengthen the intersection points of perpendicular lines.
• Couplings used when it is necessary to assemble a structure with a length of more than 3-4 m.
• Anchor hangers and special clamps - for adjusting the height of plasterboard ceilings.

Hardware requires special attention; elements are fixed to ordinary walls made of concrete or brick using expansion dowels 6 × 40 or 6 × 60: the more porous the base is, the longer the anchor is needed. When working with wood, screws with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 70-80 are used. Separate metal products will be connected with small self-tapping screws 3.5 × 9 or 3.5 × 11 (another name is rivets or “fleas”), when the frame is sheathed with plasterboard, their minimum length is 25 mm (the exact value depends on the thickness of the plate, but the end of the fastener must completely pass through it and the metal profile and protrude by 9-10 mm). Suspended ceilings hung on specialized butterfly dowels.

The main tool is a screwdriver; in its absence, it is unrealistic to assemble a system with your own hands. Also, for installation, you will need a pencil, tape measure, plumb lines, cord, level, screwdriver, hammer, metal scissors and a drill or puncher to prepare holes for dowels in the walls. The recommended type of nozzle for a screwdriver is marked RP-2. GKL sheets are brought into the room 1-2 days before the start in order to acclimatize them, the tool for cutting them should also be prepared in advance.

The nuances of installation work

First of all, you should decide on the purpose of the drywall frame, it can support walls, partitions or ceiling structures with varying complexity. When all horizontal and vertical surfaces are completely covered, it is recommended to start from the top section. The scheme is mandatory, it is planned taking into account the fastening of the joints of adjacent sheets on the same profile. Separate pieces should not sag; when sheathing rooms above the standard length of the slab (2.5 m), an additional profile is installed under its upper edge. The location of door and window openings, wiring and ducts for communications is taken into account; it is unacceptable to attach to the last GKL.

DIY ceiling frame assembly guide includes the following steps:

• Determination of the lowest angle. It is easiest to take measurements from the floor with a tape measure, but this is only permissible if there is an already operated coating and confidence in its evenness, in other cases a laser pointer is required. Marking is carried out around the entire perimeter; when doing work on your own, to eliminate errors, the lower level marks the stretched cord.
• Drawing up a diagram taking into account the area and shape of the room. The recommended orientation of the sheets is towards the window, this is especially true when arranging elongated rectangular rooms.
• Suspension fastening. The maximum allowable step is 60 cm, if it is necessary to assemble the frame for a multi-level ceiling, the anchors are placed in 2 or more rows.
• Installation of guides around the perimeter of the room, taking into account the markings made earlier. Under multi-tiered systems, several lines are needed.
• Mounting the carrier profile in the guides and attaching them to the anchor hangers.
• Reinforcement of crossing points with crabs.

When working with suspended structures, it is recommended to do all the wiring of the electrical cable in advance and bring it to all connection points for lighting fixtures and outlets on the walls for sockets. If necessary, the crate can be assembled from wooden bars, in which case it is attached to the same anchor hangers using self-tapping screws, all elements are pre-treated with an antiseptic and flame retardants. The fixing process starts from the edges and ends in the middle.

Instructions for preparing the frame for the walls

In general, the technology for installing supports under the gypsum board remains unchanged, but all surfaces are sheathed sequentially (unlike the ceiling, which is closed completely and immediately). When marking, the nearest point to the walls is searched for, which allows maintaining the evenness of the corners, an exception is made only when planning laying under sheets of insulation, communications or internal niches. The placement of the first line (and the sequence of fastening the guide profile) depends on the slope of the wall: if it protrudes top part, then work starts from the ceiling, and vice versa. When mounting on relatively flat surfaces, marking is advised to start from the floor.

When drawing up a device diagram, first of all, the number and location of window and doorways, these areas are considered problematic. The horizontal guide profile (PN) is placed first with a damper tape under the metal and a fastener spacing of 60 cm. Hangers for vertical racks begin to be laid from the window at the same interval, at least one PS is provided in the corner of the room. When installing the PS, the final fixation with self-tapping screws is carried out only after a thorough check of the level.

Instructions for creating partitions and niches

They are assembled from rack and guide profiles with a width of at least 50 × 50 and 50 × 40 mm, respectively. These dimensions are minimal, the requirements for the reliability of the frame for partitions are higher than for the wall. The marking of the first line is carried out on the floor and transferred to the ceiling, the guide profile is attached exclusively to the capital structures. The step of vertical racks is recommended to be reduced from 60 cm to 40, experienced builders check the length of each of them (the distance between the floors of the floors is different).

It is advised to mark the axles for them not on the rails, but on the floor or ceiling, this will simplify the process of plating the plasterboard. Each rack is securely fixed with self-tapping screws.

Difficulties arise when laying doorways. The simplest option is to reinforce with wooden slats, pre-treated with antiseptics, around the entire perimeter of the future passage. More complex and reliable - placing the box on right place and fastening there additional vertical racks on both sides. Between the future loot and the PS profile, a thin layer of sealant or foam is provided, they are pulled together with self-tapping screws at least 16 cm long. After checking the level, a horizontal jumper is laid - from the ceiling guides.

Structural reinforcement

To ensure reliability and safe operation during the installation of the frame are observed general rules: guides and all individual elements are fixed at at least 3 points, the edges of adjacent gypsum boards are connected on the same strip, the pitch of vertical and horizontal racks does not exceed 60 cm. In some cases, the profile is laid around the entire perimeter - when arranging doorways, loaded shelves or niches , assembly of multi-tiered ceilings. Strengthening is required in places where heavy objects are to be placed: chandeliers, brackets for furniture or equipment, or if thicker and denser plates are needed.

TO options improvements in reliability and load-bearing capacity include increasing the step of the guides, doubling the racks (recommended when assembling, designed for significant weight loads), laying inside treated with antiseptics wooden beam or the use of wider and stronger galvanized metal products. With confidence in the reliability of the supports, but increased requirements for the strength of structures, walls or partitions are sheathed in two layers with offset joints, ceilings are thus loaded in exceptional cases.

The main violations of the assembly of the frame from the profile for drywall include:

• Screwing dowels or self-tapping screws not at a right angle.
• Measure the distance between the edges, not the center. The only correct option is the marking of the axles, the center of the suspensions must completely coincide with them.
• Errors in the selection of the profile, for example, the use of PS for horizontal loadable structures.
• Unbending the sides of products or cutting them with a grinder. To obtain a neat and even cut, only special scissors are suitable.
• Fixing guides to a weak base.
• Planning communications after assembly, and even more so the cladding of the GKL.
• The absence of a damper tape under the profile along the perimeter of the room near the floors and ceiling.

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How to make a frame from a drywall profile for walls: leveling the main wall and installing a partition

Plasterboard constructions in the vast majority of cases, they are assembled on a galvanized profile frame. In this article, I want to talk about how and with the use of which particular components the frame for the plasterboard partition and the crate are mounted when leveling the wall with the help of gypsum plasterboard.

materials

First, a brief introduction to profiles and supporting materials:

• The CD ceiling profile has standard size 60x27 millimeters. It has a relatively low bending rigidity due to the low height of the side walls. Attaches to capital structures with a step of no more than 80 cm;

• The guide ceiling profile UD with a section of 27x28 mm is designed to connect the ends of the ceiling CD with the main structures of the building at a right angle. It is deprived of corrugation of the walls, which increase the rigidity by . A typical fastening step is 50 - 60 centimeters;

• Rack profile CW, as the name implies, is intended for the manufacture of frame racks. The wall configuration provides maximum rigidity with respect to bending load. Rack profile dimensions - 50x50, 50x75 and 50x100 mm; the wider it is, the higher its bending strength;

• The height of the guide profile UW is always 40 mm, while the width lies in the same range as that of the rack - 50, 75 and 100 mm. The purpose of UW is to connect racks with adjacent structures at a right angle. It is attached with the same pitch as the ceiling guide profile;

• Direct suspension - a U-shaped mount that allows you to fix long sections of the ceiling or any other profile to the ceiling or main wall;

• Corner profile - a perforated corner to reinforce the outer corners of the walls. It is laid under putty and protects the corner from accidental damage (for example, when transporting furniture).

Corner galvanized profiles are not the only material for protecting corners. For the same purpose, perforated plastic corners with reinforcing meshes are used. I prefer another way to reinforce the outer corners: after finishing finishing works a decorative PVC outer corner is glued onto the painted surface.

For fastening are used:

1. Self-tapping screws for metal (galvanized or phosphated) 9 mm long for connecting profiles to each other;

1. Dowel screws size 6x60 - 8x80 mm. They fix the guide profile and suspensions.

I will clarify: for attaching to wooden walls and ceilings (including plastered partitions in stalins), you can use ordinary phosphated self-tapping screws 45 - 70 mm long.

Tool

Now - about what you will have to stock up on from the tool before starting work.

Restrictions

GKL can only be used for finishing and installation internal walls and partitions. It is not used on the street.

GKLV (moisture resistant material) racks for high humidity(due to the low hygroscopicity of the gypsum core and the presence of antiseptic additives); constant contact with water will cause it to swell just like any other plaster product.

Installation

Wall alignment

First - about how to install the frame under the drywall on the wall when leveling it:

1. On the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling, the plane of the frame is marked. The smaller the distance from the guide profile to the main wall, the smaller the useful area of ​​​​the room will be inaccessible after the completion of work. The distance can be increased only if it is necessary to insulate the wall or when laying engineering communications of a significant cross section behind the lining (ventilation ducts or);

When marking, mark the line of the future cladding on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling with a plumb line and connect the two lines with markings on the walls made along a ruler or profile.

1. Along the markings along the perimeter of the future false wall, a UD ceiling guide profile is attached with dowel screws. The step between the attachment points should not exceed 60 cm;
2. With a step of exactly 60 cm, vertical lines for attaching the ceiling profile are marked on the main wall;
3. Along these lines, with a step of about 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
4. Ceiling profiles are cut to size and inserted into the guides;
5. Each ceiling profile is alternately aligned with a ruler, a long level or an edge of another CD profile pressed against it, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall.

Nuance: if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the drywall sheet, it is advisable to mount a horizontal jumper at the connection of each whole sheet with an additional one. The edges of adjacent sheets must always be fastened to a common profile to avoid cracking at the seams. Jumpers are made from the same CD with side walls trimmed and bent at the ends.

After installing the last CD, the frame is ready for sheathing.

How to make a frame for drywall on a wall with insulation?

The instructions are not difficult. After fastening the guide profile and straight hangers, the wall is closed with glued mineral wool slabs, the thickness corresponding to the distance from the main wall to the sheathing.

Do not use foam for wall insulation. Yes, its price is lower, but vapor permeability is also lower. With poor ventilation of the room, a situation is possible when water vapor will pass through the plasterboard and condense on the insulation, forming puddles on the floor.

The ears of the suspensions, bent at right angles to the wall, are passed directly through the slots in the insulation plates, made with a sharp knife. When installing ceiling profiles and sheathing the frame, the insulation will be securely pressed against the wall.

How to make a frame for drywall on the wall, if the length of the ears of direct suspensions is not enough to fix the crate at the right distance from the main wall?

Here are two simple solutions:

1. Connect the suspensions in pairs, pulling the ears of the first and second suspensions to each other with self-tapping screws;

1. Instead of a crate from a ceiling profile, assemble a frame from a rack profile at the desired distance from the wall. How to do this, I will explain in the next section.

Partition

How to make a drywall frame for walls between rooms?

1. The marking of the partition line is completely identical to that described above: it is performed using a tape measure, ruler, pencil and plumb line;
2. According to the marking, the UW guide profile is attached to the capital structures with dowel screws. Step - the same 50-60 cm;
3. On the floor and ceiling, the positions of the racks are marked in increments of exactly 60 cm. The markings should be a couple of centimeters away from the UW guide: these marks will come in handy when you begin to sheathe the partition with drywall;

The accuracy of the step between the uprights is important because the width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step. Then the edges of adjacent sheets will fall exactly in the middle of the racks.

1. The racks are cut to length and fastened according to the marks made earlier with metal screws. If the height of the partition exceeds the length of the sheet, in this case it is worth connecting the racks with horizontal jumpers. They are cut from the rack profile.

How to cut a door into a partition?

1. In the lower guide profile, a gap is left along the width of the doorway;
2. A vertical stand is mounted on one of its edges;
3. Box with installed and wedged in it door leaf is attracted to the rack-mount profile by self-tapping screws 16-25 mm long screwed through it. It would be a good idea to pre-apply a strip of mounting foam on the profile or outside of the box;
4. Similarly, the second rack is attached to the second side;
5. From above, a jumper between posts from the same CW profile is attracted to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame.

How to install a light window in a partition with your own hands (for example, in a bathroom)?

The only difference from the door is that horizontal lintels are attached both above and below the window opening.

How to make a frame for shelves or niches?

• The frame of the partition is made double, with the distance between the guide profiles and the uprights equal to the estimated depth of the niches or shelves (of course, adjusted for the thickness of the skin);
• Neighboring racks are interconnected by horizontal jumpers from the rack profile;
• With a niche depth of more than 25 - 30 cm, additional connections are mounted between the two frames, which will become a support for horizontal surfaces.

Little tricks

How to increase the rigidity of the partition?

• Use rack profile greater width(not 50, but 75 or 100 millimeters);
• If it's important to you minimum thickness walls, put in racks mortgages from a bar section 50x50 mm;

• When installing a partition, I simply connected rack CW in pairs, turning them in opposite directions, and nesting each other.

In addition: the strength of the partition will increase markedly with a two-layer plasterboard sheathing. Sheets of the first and second layers are fastened with overlapping horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 25-30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50-70 pieces per sheet.

How to ensure maximum sound insulation between rooms separated by a plasterboard partition?

1. When assembling the frame, lay under the guide profiles damper tape. It will exclude the transmission of acoustic vibrations from the partition to the capital structures of the building, thereby cutting off low-frequency noise;
2. Complete the bulkhead frame mineral wool . Lay the plates without gaps: each cavity will become a resonator that amplifies the sound;

1. Finally, the most effective soundproofing can be arranged acoustically decoupling wall surfaces. To do this, the guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the partition in two rows, and the racks are installed in a checkerboard pattern. Each post contacts only one side of the baffle.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of frames from the profile is simple and does not require any specific skills. You can study the process of assembling the crate more clearly by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

What interior partitions, suspended ceilings, arches or false walls are mounted on a pre-made frame from a profile for drywall, not only experienced, but also many novice craftsmen know. However, novice craftsmen often have many questions related specifically to the installation or assembly of individual frame components from a metal profile for drywall.

The main nodes when installing a plasterboard ceiling

Metal carcass for drywall on the ceiling is mounted from two types of profile: guide and carrier. The guide profile is attached to the wall with expansion anchors. Holes are pre-drilled in the profile through which they are drilled into the wall. Usually the pitch between the anchors is 40-50 cm. If the ceiling structure is complex and the total load is significant, then the pitch between the anchors is reduced to 30 cm.

Bearing ceiling profiles are placed parallel to each other so that the drywall sheet is attached to at least three profiles. When assembling a frame for drywall from a metal profile, the supporting profiles are inserted to the full depth into the guides and mounted with 1-2 self-tapping screws for metal.

Considering that drywall sheets are of considerable weight, the bearing profiles should not sag. To do this, each carrier profile in increments of 50-60 cm is tied to the ceiling slab using perforated hangers. The installation of suspensions on the floor slab is carried out with expansion anchors, and the metal plates of the suspensions hanging down are fixed with self-tapping screws to the vertical shelves of the supporting ceiling profile.

Crosspieces of the same material are mounted transversely to whole parallel supporting profiles. As a result, the drywall frame on the ceiling visually resembles a cage with regular squares or rectangles. To fix the jumper between two whole profiles, a connecting element is used - a crab. The standard crab is a four-sided cruciform plate, which is placed on top of the connected horizontal profiles and fixed with self-tapping screws.

If the total ceiling area is small, then instead of connecting crabs, it is allowed to mount jumpers to parallel solid profiles directly using the provided wings. To do this, the jumper is made 12-15 cm longer than the opening for it. After that, cuts are made at both ends of the jumper and its wings are bent in different directions. Installation is carried out by fastening the wing and the adjacent profile with a self-tapping screw.

If the frame is being installed under drywall for two-level ceiling, then it often becomes necessary to connect intersecting profiles not in a single horizontal plane, but in steps. For such a connection, a two-level crab. A two-level crab is located above the topmost profile and is attached to its shelves with self-tapping screws. The lower profile is fixed by the crab due to its spacer ears.

It often happens that the length of the room exceeds the length of the carrier profile. In this case, two supporting metal profiles are spliced ​​together using an internal connecting plate. The plate is placed up to the middle in the profile and fastened to its side shelves with self-tapping screws, after which the second profile is put on the second end of the plate and it is fixed in the same way.

It is also worth mentioning the longitudinal method of splicing profiles. It is mainly used in the manufacture of . Where the partition will be installed door frame, rack profiles reinforce.

This rack is made of two different profiles. A bearing wall profile is inserted into the guide floor profile and self-tapping screws are screwed on both sides of the shelves in increments of 30 cm.

This assembled element is suitable if the total weight of the door is small. If the door is heavy, then the vertical rack is reinforced with a wooden bar.

Metal profile mounting methods

The main nodes and how to assemble a frame from a drywall profile were discussed above. Now let's talk directly about the methods of fastening profiles and their components. There are three main ways to connect profiles.

• Self-tapping screws for metal;
• Notch (cutter);
• Aluminum rivets.

Self-tapping screws for metal are used with a sharp tip and frequent threads. The length of the self-tapping screws is 9.5-11 mm, the width is 3.5 mm. The slot at the self-tapping screw must be cross-shaped. To screw a self-tapping screw, use a screwdriver with a cross-shaped nozzle installed in the cartridge. In principle, it is also possible to tighten the self-tapping screw manually using a curly screwdriver, but for a large amount of work this method is unproductive.

The method of fastening profiles with a punch does not require any consumables at all. This method of connection consists in the fact that with the help of a cutter at the installation point, several breakdowns are made. When installing with a cutter, one profile must necessarily be included in another profile. That is, overhead installation will not work in any way.

The method of connecting profiles for hl with aluminum rivets is the least common. For example, when the question arises, how to make a drywall frame for a two-level asymmetric ceiling. The bottom line is that in order to collect such complex structure, you have to use a lot of homemade or purchased arched profiles. Considering that the arched profile has a lower bearing capacity than a conventional supporting profile, its installation should be carried out with a more reliable installation.

The connection method with aluminum rivets can be considered the most reliable. However, due to the high cost of rivets and their necessary a large number, this method is used when it is really impossible to perform installation in a different way. In a standard situation, installation is carried out with self-tapping screws or a cutter.

The easiest way to do perfect wall for any kind of subsequent interior decoration? Assemble the frame from a metal profile and sheathe it with one or two layers of plasterboard (drywall). We will tell you how to minimize the complexity of selecting the necessary material and assemble the frame for drywall.

Advantages of plasterboard wall construction

GKL (gypsum plasterboard) is a universal material for rough finishing of any type of heated premises. The wall surface made with this material, after minimal modification, is suitable for painting, wallpapering, laying any type of tile. Now there is and is often used frameless technology, which involves the installation of gypsum boards directly on the base wall using specialized glue. But still, the main method of creating a wall surface from GKL is the preliminary creation of a crate, on which drywall sheets are sewn.

Why is a drywall frame on the wall a priority? This technology has several undeniable advantages, such as:

• convenience of hidden laying of various communications (from electrical wiring to sewer pipes);
• the possibility of laying insulation or soundproofing material between the base surface and the sheathing;
• structural strength and long service life;
• the ability to create a flat surface that meets modern finishing requirements (when installing drywall on glue, it is difficult to achieve an ideal result).

According to the material used, the battens for subsequent sheathing are wooden and metal. When the technology was first introduced, priority was given to wooden structures.There were several reasons for this:

• there were no metal profiles for drywall on sale, if they appeared, their quality was low;
• there was no choice of additional fastening devices (suspensions, "crabs", etc.), the necessary hardware for installing the frame under the drywall from the metal profile;
• the technology of assembling a metal structure was not mastered, so the craftsmen preferred intuitive wooden bars and slats to metal products.

Now the situation has changed radically. The choice of components for assembling the frame is large, and the quality of the parts is on top. For each item, you can choose from 2-3 types of products from different manufacturers. In terms of total cost, a metal structure comes out a little more expensive than a wooden one, but a profile crate is more convenient to assemble and much more durable. For these reasons, now in most cases they make a frame from a profile for drywall, and wooden crates are gradually becoming a thing of the past. The technology of assembling a wall structure from a galvanized metal profile has been thoroughly studied and supplemented by some improvements by domestic masters. Its rules and subtleties will be discussed later, now we will tell you what set of materials will be needed for work.

We select the necessary material - it is important to calculate everything and not forget anything

To assemble a metal crate, you will need a lot of its various components, both in quantity and in name. Let's start with the names of the frame parts and their purpose.

So, regardless of the amount of work ahead, to create a wall structure, you will need the following materials:

• profiles of two types - guides (PN) and bearing (they are also ceiling (PP));
• direct suspensions or "pawns" (in construction slang);
• single-level profile connectors or "crabs";
• special self-tapping screws for metal ("fleas");
• dowels quick installation or (depending on the material of the base wall, ceiling and floor);

Despite the fact that we are talking about assembling the frame, drywall is purchased immediately. Why? You will understand from the description of the technological process.

Now more about each type necessary materials. Profiles for mounting frames are very different in configuration and size. For wall construction, only two types are needed. PN-profile is designed to create a guide perimeter for precise installation of the remaining components of the crate. At the end it has dimensions of 270/270 mm and a smooth surface. A load-bearing structure is formed from the PP profile, where these parts act as vertical racks. The end size of the bearing profile is 540/270 mm. His side surfaces(shelves) have three longitudinal grooves, and the front surface of the back has many small pits. That those that other profiles are 3 and 4 meters long. Required amount The PN-profile is calculated according to the footage of the perimeters of the sheathed walls, the PP-profile is calculated based on the selected step of the racks (40 cm or 60 cm).

Direct hangers are rigid perforated galvanized steel plates. Their purpose is to connect the supporting racks of the drywall frame to the base surface. They were called "pawns" due to the fact that in the working position (after bending) the plates are U-shaped. Suspensions come in various lengths and stiffness. The longer the pawn, the thicker and harder the metal. The minimum length of the parts is 25 cm (unfolded), the maximum is 70 cm. For the installation of wall battens, the shortest (less often) or medium-length (40 cm) straight hangers are usually used. "Pawns" are calculated as follows - 3 pieces for each rack up to 2.5 m high and 4 pieces for a height of 2.5-3.5 m.

"Crabs" are needed to mount transverse jumpers cut from a PP profile between the racks (additional rigidity). The "crab" design allows you to quickly and reliably connect the elements of the carrier profile in the same plane and in a mutually perpendicular direction. Often, instead of "crabs", masters use other, more simple ways cross connection, but if you strictly follow the technology, it is necessary to use single-level connectors. The number of these parts depends on the number of reinforcing ribs. You need one "crab" for each rack with one cross member.

To connect the various metal parts of the frame to each other, "fleas" are used - small self-tapping screws (they got their slang name due to their size) equipped with a drill at the end. Thanks to this flea design, there is no need to additionally drill a hole before screwing in a small connecting screw, which greatly speeds up the work. The number of fleas is taken arbitrarily with a margin (self-tapping screws are cheap and are sold in packs of 100 to 1000 pieces).

To fasten the GKL to the racks and cross members of the crate, you will need special self-tapping screws. They resemble black wood screws, but have a more frequent thread pitch. To create a drywall wall, you need self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a single-layer sheathing and 45 mm when installing two layers of plasterboard. For quality installation a whole sheet of drywall needs about 50 pieces of self-tapping screws.

To install guide profiles and fix direct hangers to the base wall, you will need dowels or wood screws. Dowels (6x40 mm or 6x60 mm) for quick installation are useful if the wall is made of dense building material (brick, concrete). If the base building construction made of porous material (foam blocks, aerated concrete, shell rock) or wood, wood screws are used as fixing hardware. The same situation with the ceiling (ceiling) and floor when installing guide profiles. To fix one suspension, you will need 2 fasteners, for mounting 1 m of the PN-profile 1.5-2 dowels (self-tapping screws).

Wall 12.5 mm is of several types. Moisture resistant (designated GKLV), fire resistant (GKLO) and endowed with resistance to moisture and temperature effects at the same time (GKLVO). For ordinary rooms with a normal microclimate, simple drywall is chosen, for bathrooms and kitchens - moisture resistant. If you need to sheathe an unheated boiler room, you should choose GKLVO. Regardless of the properties, wall sheets are produced in two sizes - 120x250 cm and 120x300 cm. The required amount of drywall is calculated from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls plus a small (about 5%) margin for a possible pattern.

A handy tool is half the battle

Installation of a frame for drywall involves not only the presence the right materials V enough, but also the selection of a set necessary tool.The list of tools for assembling the crate is presented in the following list:

• a puncher will be needed to drill holes for dowels, so you should equip the power tool with a 6 mm diameter drill bit;
• a screwdriver is the most popular device when assembling a supporting metal structure, it will need two bits - a regular figured one and with a limiter for screwing drywall screws when sheathing a finished crate;
• angle grinder (angle grinder) with a metal disk or metal shears for cutting profiles of the desired length (it is better to work with scissors, but there are craftsmen who are accustomed to using a grinder - it’s more convenient for anyone);
• a bubble level (water level) and a plumb line will be needed to control verticality when installing guide profiles and support racks;
• a paint thread with paint will help to easily draw the contours according to which the PN profiles will be attached;
• measuring tape - the function of the tool can not be reminded once again;
• a thick fishing line or nylon thread will be needed as a guideline when setting up the carrier racks in the same plane;
• construction knife with a set of replaceable blades for cutting plasterboard.

Replace plumb bob and in many cases building level maybe a laser level. It is much more convenient to use this tool and the result will be more accurate in the end, therefore, if a laser level is available, it is a sin not to use it.

If you decide to use a grinder to cut a profile, take care of the basic safety rules. Be sure to wear glasses when cutting a metal profile, do not work with a tool overhanging and do not remove the “interfering” protective cover from the angle grinder.

Having collected a set of necessary tools at hand, and having stocked up with material for assembling a frame from a metal profile for drywall, you can read the next section and proceed with the practical implementation of your plan.

In assembling a structure from a profile for plasterboard sheathing, you will need an assistant, especially if the area and height of the wall are significant.

How to make a frame from a profile - step by step instructions

Before you start assembling the crate, you need to consider some points. Firstly, all communications planned here are laid first. Special attention is given to electrical wiring and the layout of the location of switches and sockets. It is necessary to separate the cables in such a way (not forgetting to "hide" them in the cable channels), so that later you do not have to search the right wires when the frame is sheathed with plasterboard.

Secondly, it is necessary to provide for the installation after finishing work of hanging objects, especially bulky and heavy ("top" kitchen set, boiler, wall-mounted heating boiler, TV, etc.). In order to avoid problems with the reliable installation of such items, it is advisable to attach thick wooden bars to the base surface in the section of the wall intended for installation and mark their coordinates on the sketch (after finishing, you can not remember the exact location of the mounting pads). It is more convenient to do this after mounting the racks, before they are sheathed. The main thing is not to forget.

It is necessary to assemble the frame from the drywall profile so that all the corners in the room end up being straight. To do this, the perimeter is initially marked on the floor surface, taking into account the squareness of the corners (painting thread is used) and the distance from the mounting wall. Having made such a markup and making sure that the corners are right (we apply school knowledge- the Pythagorean theorem), we proceed to the installation of the floor guide profile - we put it on the floor so that the outer shelf coincides with the drawn line and draws it to the surface.

Next, we consider how to make a frame for drywall using the example of one wall. We cut off a fragment of the PN-profile a centimeter less than the height of the ceiling and insert it into the guide element fixed on the floor near one of the walls. We expose it vertically and fix it to the surface. We do the same on the other side. With the help of a paint thread, we beat off a straight line on the ceiling, corresponding to the outer shelves of vertically installed profiles. Similarly to the floor, we fix the ceiling section of the PN-profile. The result is a guide perimeter set in a vertical plane. The next process looks like this.

1. 1. Install the bearing racks. We cut off the PP-profile in height and insert it into the lower and upper guide elements of the crate. We expose them at equal distances, taking one of the walls as a reference point. If you need a reinforced frame, choose a rack pitch of 40 cm, standard design assumes a distance between the carrier profiles of 60 cm. Another step is not possible, since it must be a multiple of the width of the plasterboard. After 30 cm, it makes no sense to mount the racks - firstly, it is redundant, and secondly, there will be difficulties with screwing the profiles to the suspensions.
2. 2. We fix the "pawns" to the wall opposite each rack. With a ceiling height of about 2.5 m, the suspensions should be located in height as follows: the first - 55-60 cm from the floor, the second - 110-120 cm, the third - half the distance from the second "pawn" to the ceiling. Suspensions are fixed straight, and bent before connecting them to the racks.
3. 3. Having fixed the hangers to the wall, we stretch the orientation thread between the outer shelves of the vertical guide profiles, first slightly concave the racks to the base wall. Focusing on the thread, the PP profiles are alternately set along the thread and fixed with "fleas" to the bent hangers. The protruding ends of the mounting plates are bent to the wall (they do not need to be cut off).
4. 4. The last step is to install the cross bars. According to technology, they are installed at about a meter from the floor, although nothing prevents the installation of additional stiffeners. To further increase the strength of the structure, each cross member can be reinforced by installing a direct suspension.

The crate on the adjacent wall is also done, with the difference that one of the vertical guides will not be attached to the base wall surface, but to the elements of the frame assembled before. You can do this: first sheathe the finished section, and then proceed to assemble the structure on the adjacent wall. There will be no mistake in this, and such a move will not affect the strength of the mounted metal structure in any way.

Making a frame for drywall is a big part of the work in the technology of creating a rough finish from gypsum plasterboard. Sheathing a finished structure is easier and faster than mounting it. But there are also nuances in installing drywall sheets, which you will learn about in the next section.

Sheathing of a metal crate - in one or two layers?

In most cases, battens with a thickness of one GKL are used. This is fully justified if another similar material is supposed to be used as a finishing cladding, which gives the wall additional strength. When there is wallpaper, paint or a thin layer on the wall decorative plaster, quite possibly random mechanical damage plasterboard sheathing, which is fraught with alteration of the entire wall, including the dismantling of the plasterboard. If activity is expected in the room (gym, billiard room), it is better to sheathe the metal profile frame in two sheets of drywall. It is very difficult to break through a double layer of skin, even if desired.

But first, consider the installation of one (or first) layer of drywall. Installation begins from the angle from which the step of the carrier profile was calculated. The first sheet usually lays down without the need for a side pattern - the GKL is adjusted only in height. After taking measurements, the excess is cut off with a construction knife - first, a shallow cut is made in the front cardboard, after which the gypsum core breaks and the back "paper" is cut off.

The sheet is made 1-1.5 cm shorter than the distance from floor to ceiling. Before attaching drywall to the frame, stands about 0.5 cm are placed under it, which are removed after screwing the plasterboard. This is how deformation gaps are formed between the finishing material and building surfaces. A sheet is screwed with a self-tapping pitch of about 20 cm to each profile. It is impossible to strongly sink the heads of the screws, as well as leave them protruding above the front surface. A properly screwed self-tapping screw should be recessed into the cardboard by about 1.5 mm. It helps to speed up the process of tightening the screws and regulate the degree of their immersion in drywall with a special bit with a stroke limiter.

The remaining sheets are installed as well, close to the previous ones. The last KGL on the wall is cut out on the side according to the distance to the adjacent wall. To screw the first layer of drywall sheets, self-tapping screws 25 mm long are used. If a second layer of drywall is expected, longer screws (45 mm) will be needed. There is nothing complicated in installing the GKL with the second layer - everything is done exactly the same way, only the sheets are shifted by one profile so that the seams do not match.

The use of drywall is one of the most effective ways leveling of draft surfaces and construction of non-load-bearing partitions. Easy-to-install material levels any type of surface and helps to create structures of any complexity. But to work with drywall, you need knowledge on making a frame from a profile and lining it with plasterboard.

The complex of works with drywall involves two stages - the manufacture of the frame of the future structure, fastening and its sheathing.

A metal profile frame is preferable to a wooden one, as it is strong and durable, does not corrode and is easy to install. The frame can be assembled with your own hands or purchased ready kit disassembled. It is easy, fast and convenient to assemble a metal profile. Its flexibility and strength make it possible to create the most bizarre forms of arches, ceilings, niches. Manufacturers of galvanized profiles have developed different types and sizes for various options facings. Distinguish between a guide and a connecting profile. The first edge is even, allowing you to insert one fragment into another, the connecting edge is bent for complete rigidity of the assembly.

The algorithm for assembling a high-quality metal frame for installing drywall provides for a certain sequence:

• For maximum compliance the future frame is first measured from the base surface of the walls or ceiling. If you plan to complete the sheathing of the room, the frame device starts from the ceiling, since the non-ideal geometry of the corners will make it difficult to install the ceiling after wall cladding.
• The marking of the ceiling under the frame starts from the most elevated place (or depression). If there are windows, the marking of the walls begins with window openings.
• At this stage, it is already possible to calculate the number of GCR and profile. To make a frame with your own hands, you need to purchase 2 types of profile - rack and rail. The latter type creates the basis of the structure, where the rack metal profile is inserted. Docking points are fixed with hardware.
• To make the frame rigid, the rack profile is fixed at a certain distance, in increments of 60 cm.

• When finishing the walls, first completely prepare one wall(framework, fastening, sheathing) and only after that they move on to the next surface. When marking walls, their curvature is also taken into account.
• The frame should be 10 cm from the base surface if sound and heat insulation is laid between the plasterboard and the draft wall. Engineering communications are also located in this gap.
• To assemble a high-quality frame from a profile, use small self-tapping screws with a drill (bugs). The presence of a screw makes it possible to make holes in the metal profile. This type of connection can creak when the room shrinks, so the joints are secured with sealant.
• Professionals cut the profile with a grinder, but its thickness allows you to get by with scissors for metal.
• A metal frame made of a profile for drywall is convenient when creating not only rectilinear structures. To create an arch or a figured two-tiered ceiling, a profile of a certain length is prepared and the side ribs are cut in increments of 5 cm. Now you can bend it without the risk of damage and fix it to the base with self-tapping screws.

You can see the entire process of manufacturing and installation of a frame from a metal profile on a video clip.

Frame from a metal profile for drywall (video)

Facing

The metal profile frame fixed on the base surface is sheathed with plasterboard sheets, this work requires some preparation.

Firstly, before cladding, all communications must be correctly positioned inside the frame. Safety electrical cable isolate and fix without contact with metal parts. It is especially necessary to control the installation of spotlights in this regard. The wire length margin should be within 10-15 cm from the GKL. Other communications that require constant access for control, it is better not to sew up the GKL at all, because to disassemble new wall difficult to repair them.

In any case, before sheathing, it is necessary to check the operation of all systems that are supposed to be hidden.

If you have decided on the quantity, you must select the type of drywall that corresponds to the purpose of the room where the repair is being carried out. There are ordinary wall, fire-resistant, moisture-resistant and combined materials. The first is used in rooms with normal temperature and humidity.

Moreover, for the ceiling, an ordinary gray sheet of drywall will be thinner - 9.5 mm, while for slopes, niches, walls - 12.5 mm, for arches and other patterns - 6.5 mm.

The second type, pink, is necessary in rooms with a high fire hazard. The third option, green shades, is used in the kitchen, in the bathroom - rooms where the temperature and humidity are higher. There are also combined types that combine all the protective characteristics.

The cladding sequence is simple:

• GKL lean against a fixed profile, placing sheets vertically or horizontally in accordance with the position of the frame. Then they are fixed with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws for metal.
• The seams and joints between the plates are glued with a sickle (construction mesh) and putty.
• The clean side is treated with impregnation and carried out finishing (wallpapering, painting, tiling).

Fix drywall sheets in 25 mm increments, this will create solid construction and seal the finishing layer. You should not screw in the screws more often - you can damage the panel. The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the cap sinks slightly, without tearing the edges of the drywall onto the fringe. Such a mount is easily masked with putty.

Puttying - mandatory step cladding, regardless of the type finishing material. For wallpapering, you can limit yourself to puttying joints and screw attachment points so that red spots do not appear on the surface of the paper. When painting, a full putty of GKL is required.

Surface preparation

Drywall needs decorative trim because he doesn't have those qualities. The easiest way is coloring water-based paint in any color suitable for the interior. It is necessary to putty the surface in two layers. The starting mixture is coarser, the finishing mixture is fine-grained. After drying each layer, the surface is cleaned with sanding paper or a grout. Such processing involves the presence of a large amount of harmful dust.

In addition to the fact that you need to work in glasses, closed clothes, with a hat, gloves and a respirator, the surface must be cleaned (with a broom or a construction vacuum cleaner) and coated with a special impregnation.

In addition to the final cleaning of the surface, this solution will improve the adhesion of putty layers.

Subtleties at work

All impregnating solutions should dry for 12 hours or more, then you can apply the next layer of putty, which also needs grinding and impregnation. Without experience, such work is performed in 3-4 approaches.

After complete drying of such processing, you can proceed to the decorative cladding. Sheets are also painted in several layers after the previous one has completely dried.

If they plan to hang a massive chandelier from the ceiling in the room, fix a picture or some kind of device on the wall, these nuances must be taken into account even at the stage of mounting the frame, reinforcing it in the marked places. In any case, after mounting the frame, it is worth sketching the location of the grid of profiles in order to use this scheme in the future when hanging shelves, planters, etc.

If you understand the principle of installation and to begin with, to begin with, to assemble a simple partition from GKL, then with such a skill, with further repairs, you can also aim at larger projects: a two-level ceiling, decorative niches, arched openings.

Installation of a frame for a two-level plasterboard ceiling (video)