In order for the bath to be strong and durable, and its use does not cause inconvenience or a feeling of discomfort, during the construction of the building, one should strictly adhere to the calculations made and follow the advice on choosing building mixtures and materials.

Baths and saunas - rooms with high level humidity and a special microclimate, and the need to maintain a certain temperature in the steam room makes it necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of heat-insulating material.

In addition, surfaces on which protective coatings have a number of advantages:

• fast and uniform heating of the walls;
• slow cooling;
• preservation of heat inside the steam room for a longer period of time;
• low flammability and reduced risk of fire;
• increase the service life of the building;
• prevention of dampness and decay;
• preventing the development of mold, fungus and other pathogenic microorganisms.

Without good thermal insulation made with high-quality materials, not a single bath, sauna or steam room can fully fulfill its functions.

Methods of thermal insulation and selection of material

The thermal insulation materials used can be natural or artificial, they have different levels of heat transfer and the ability to store and return heat back to the steam room. This indicator is characterized by a coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, depending on the thickness of the material and thermal conductivity.

Materials are used based on their properties and type of structure.

Thermal insulation can be internal, external and by spraying (both internal and external). The most popular way of carrying out work is internal, which includes the sequential laying of layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier materials.

Characteristics of natural insulating coatings

Natural materials are suitable for thermal insulation exclusively log cabins. Previously, flax, moss and tourniquet were used for these purposes, now these materials act as the main components of more modern and durable coatings, and the method of their application is called "intervention".

Considering the features of installation, interventional materials have a high consumption, and the process of laying them is long and laborious.

Laying tape heaters for warming a wooden frame

Natural insulating materials are used in the external thermal insulation of baths and free-standing saunas; they can be laid in several ways.

The most difficult laying of the bundle, its entire process can be divided into stages.

Important! The number of layers is determined independently and averages 2-4, depending on the quality of the log, its processing and the climatic conditions of the region. Experts strongly advise, even with high-quality interventional thermal insulation, it is imperative to insulate the steam room and dressing room from the inside.

Prices for sealants for wooden houses

wood house sealant

Artificial and thermal insulation coatings

materials industrial production are more versatile and have many advantages compared to natural ones - they are not subject to physical deformations and are resistant to attacks by rodents and insects.

When choosing a heat-insulating coating, it is important to pay attention to the following indicators:

• tightness;
• low thermal conductivity - the lower the coefficient, the less heat loss;
• sufficient level of thermal protection;
• wear resistance;
• the ability to provide an airtight coating;
• resistance to both chemical aggressors and physical impact;
• incombustibility;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• non-toxicity and safety for humans;
• moisture resistance;
• elasticity and resistance to deformation;
• weather resistance.

For better protection surfaces will be more effective combined synthetic materials:

Important! If the walls of the bath are built of bricks or blocks, then before starting work, all gaps and places of loose fit of the plates must be sealed. For this, slag, expanded clay or a sand mixture with the addition of sawdust mixed with limestone is suitable. The wall is being worked on from the inside. With a shortage of time, you can use hard mineral wool sheets.

Prices for Megafol

Floor insulation in the bath and sauna

Fields in baths and saunas are most often made of non-resinous wood. The whole process takes place in several stages.

Concrete floors are usually designed in shower areas. Thick foam sheets are suitable for its insulation - they are laid directly on the foundation before concrete is poured. To enhance the effect, expanded clay can be added to the solution, mineral wool or tow. The slope of the floor must be provided for a more convenient flow of water.

Important! When mixing the combined concrete mix for pouring the floor in the shower, you need to thoroughly mix all the components of the composition.

Wall insulation

The laying of heat-insulating materials on the walls is carried out immediately after laying the subfloor with the provided wooden floors or pouring the concrete screed.

1. A layer of vapor and waterproofing materials is attached over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. Can be taken polyethylene film as the most affordable and economical coating - it will protect the walls from condensation and prevent the formation of mold and mildew. Under polyethylene it is allowed to put a layer of foil with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The joints of both layers must be glued with foil tape or construction tape.

   

2. On top of the waterproofing on all walls with bars with a section of 50x50 mm, a vertical crate is made in increments of 50-60 cm. The board is attached to the walls with self-tapping screws.

   

3. A layer of heat-insulating material is laid in the "cells" of the crate. Ideally, based on fiberglass or mineral wool and its derivatives. The layer thickness depends on the material used, but should not be less than 30 mm. When choosing, it is important to carefully read the label - higher requirements are imposed on the material for steam rooms, it should not be fusible, toxic and combustible.

   

4. A layer of heat-insulating material is covered with foil or a foil coating so that the battens of the crate are also closed.

   

5. At the end, you should once again inspect the entire room and, if necessary, glue the corners with foil tape.
6. The last step is the installation of the lining, which is located horizontally and is attached to the beams of the crate.

   

Important! Warming of the steam room should take place in compliance with all recommendations and include steam, hydro and thermal insulation, in other rooms of the bath and sauna, the vapor barrier layer can be neglected.

Prices for lining

Video - Clapboard wall cladding

For insulation of the roof and ceiling, the same materials are used as for the main work. But it should be remembered that it is under the ceiling that hot air is concentrated, so all coatings used must be non-combustible or treated with special compounds. It is advisable to choose mineral wool as a heat-insulating material and lay it in a layer with a thickness of at least 12-15 cm.

Work on warming the ceiling of the bath is carried out from the roof or attic, saunas - from the inside of the steam room in the reverse order.

The use of mineral wool insulation is mandatory only in the steam room area. In the dressing room and rest room, you can use cheaper materials - polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

Often, heat loss in the steam room occurs not only due to a poorly thought-out thermal insulation system, but also due to entrance doors. To prevent this from happening - carefully adjust door leaf and tighten the hinges, eliminating even the slightest sagging. Many masters recommend designing a threshold in the steam room of at least 12 centimeters - this will prevent cold air from getting inside.

Special attention should be paid to the “dressing room”, it should be not only functional and comfortable, but also insulated according to all the rules.

Video - How to insulate a bath without harming your health

A good heater for a bath is the most important thing to pay attention to when it comes to interior design. After all, the safety of bathing procedures, their comfort, and the durability of the walls themselves directly depend on its quality - especially in the steam room. But how to figure out which insulation is better for a bath, when almost a dozen of their types are offered on the modern market? Our article will help you with this.

So, back in Soviet times, civil engineers made the following discovery: any homogeneous thick wall does not guarantee effective heat retention - because it will necessarily absorb some of the energy itself. And here layered construction, which contains different technical specifications materials - in terms of density, porosity and thermal conductivity - just well prevent heat loss, and such a half-meter "pie" can be compared in its performance with a wall one and a half meters thick. But the effectiveness of the "pie" itself depends on what kind of insulation for the bath was chosen.

Requirements for a bath heater

First of all, environmentally friendly, maximally resistant to moisture, well resisting the growth of bacteria and fungi, and, finally, capable of long years keep your shape well. And the most important indicator of the effectiveness of a heater is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. The higher it is, the better the material itself. For example, it is mineral wool that is considered the warmest so far - its indicator is 0.045 W / (K * m).

In addition, there are additional requirements for the heater in the bath:

1. It should work well with existing finishing and building materials without affecting their specific benefits in any way.
2. Do not allow condensation to accumulate.
3. Have the lowest moisture absorption value.
4. Have a certificate of safety of use and full compliance with fire and sanitary and hygienic criteria.
5. Ensure the possibility of performing absolutely hermetic thermal insulation.

organic heaters

These are heaters that are made from plant or animal material - linen tow, shavings, cellulose, felt and others.

For example, heat-insulating products made from peat, reeds and woodworking waste are quite popular today. These are reed, chipboard and peat slabs, which are good for warming the dressing room and the rest room. They are not allowed in hot rooms - despite the fact that such materials are usually additionally treated with flame retardants.

Inorganic heaters

Such heaters are made through the processing of minerals. And they are already divided into:

Polymer heaters and their features

Polymer insulation includes all those that are created by human hands - first of all, it is polystyrene. This material is like a heater for, if it has a second floor, it is light, convenient and practical. It is easy for them to carry out all the work, it resists moisture well and tolerates high temperatures.

These types of this material are most often used today for insulation: foam plastics, foam plastics with a foamy and cellular structure, honeycomb plastic insulation. The newest and quite popular option today is foam glass, which is easy to cut with a knife and saw, and conveniently attached to the surface. In addition, foam glass as a heater for the roof of the bath embodied all the best from stone wool and polystyrene.

But still, it is extremely undesirable to insulate the inside of the bath with polystyrene - due to the fact that at high temperatures it begins to emit dangerous vapors of phenol, a particularly toxic substance. After all, only perfectly chemically pure materials can be used for a bath - and absolutely fireproof.

Mineral and glass wool insulation

This includes the famous mineral wool and not only. In general, mineral heaters are considered the most economical for baths. They are made from stone and slag fibers, so that such mats can even be used to insulate the surface of a bath pool.

And here basalt insulation for a bath, diabase, dolomite, slag and limestone wool have their own priorities in that they are not combustible, have really high insulating characteristics, are durable, do not deform and are famous for their water-repellent properties. Installation with such cotton wool is quite simple and convenient, and the material itself is not to the taste of rodents. That is why basalt and stone insulation for a bath is one of the most preferred today.

Close in its characteristics to basalt wool and glass wool - it is also more flexible in installation. However, the limit of resistance to high-temperature exposure is lower. As a heater for the walls of the bath, it fits well - but not for the steam room.

Benefits of foil insulation

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath is most often selected with reflective characteristics. Among them, the so-called mirror heaters are quite popular today - they are supplemented with a special polished aluminum film that does not let the most valuable - infrared thermal radiation - pass outside the steam room. And such a “pie” is much more effective than ordinary foil on cotton wool, which is often simply not able to withstand massive heat loss. In fact, this is an ideal heater for the ceiling of the bath, and not only.

What kind of insulation to take for insulation between the crowns?

Insulation for baths and saunas can be not only internal or external, but also interventional. Indeed, the heat in the bath itself depends on how densely the space between the logs is filled.

So, for a long time, materials such as red moss, cuckoo flax, sphagnum, woolen felt, hemp hemp, linen tow and jute were used to insulate the log house of the bath. But all of them are very attractive to birds and insects, and therefore, already a couple of years after the insulation, it is necessary to restore the thermal layer between the logs. In addition, if such an interventional insulation also turns out to be underdried, then it will begin to rot and simply pull the entire log house with it.

It is quite difficult to work with such materials - they quickly dry out during the masonry process, and therefore it takes just a lot of time for all this. That is why today builders increasingly prefer new hybrid heat insulators - combinations of jute and flax fibers. These are lnovatin, flax-jute felt, jute felt and fluffy spruce or pine wood. All of them fill the gaps in the log house well and do not require re-caulking.

However, for each type of bath, or rather, the material from which it is built, its own type of insulation is suitable. About what on our site there is a separate interesting article.

In order to fully enjoy the bath procedures in your own country house, you must carefully insulate the room. Otherwise, too much effort and firewood will be spent on achieving and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room.

Today I will tell you how to do the insulation of the sauna from the inside with your own hands. Let's figure out which better material for this use and how to mount it on the wall.

Features of warming baths and saunas

The method of thermal insulation of a sauna or bath depends on the material and technology used to build the house itself. The instruction presented in this article talks about how to perform thermal insulation of a room whose walls are constructed from profiled timber.

This material itself has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, it does not require the installation of a thick insulating layer (although everything here depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the building is located).

1. Reduce the time it takes to warm up the steam room. Due to the reduction of heat loss, the air inside will heat up faster, since the aluminum foil layer reflects infrared rays into the room.
2. Protect the wall material from the destructive effects of moisture. Mandatory element The insulating cake is a vapor and waterproofing, which prevents moist air from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures, destroying them.
3. Prevent wall damage from temperature fluctuations. A steam room is a room where the temperature of the air is constantly increasing, then decreasing. Such changes reflect badly on the integrity wooden walls. A layer of insulation retains heat inside, limiting its access to the timber.

Now about the features of the technology relating to the wooden sauna. When choosing a warming material and the procedure itself, you need to consider the following points:

• it is better to take a "breathable" material that does not violate the natural air infiltration in wooden walls;
• the warming layer should be well protected from water vapor in the air in the steam room;
• be sure to use a heat-reflecting foil layer, which prevents the insulation from absorbing infrared rays (that is, it will not be the thermal insulation that will heat up, but the air in the sauna).

Necessary materials and tools

Let's start with the choice of thermal insulation. I will not now list exotic methods of insulation, which include sprayed polyurethane foam or ecowool, as well as old-fashioned methods - sawdust, dry leaves, and so on.

There are two main options to choose from - polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Since the first material disrupts air infiltration and, when heated, releases substances dangerous to humans, I will not recommend it for work. Therefore, only mineral wool remains.

It is this material, I will tell you a secret, that I really like to use for warming the sauna. And all because it has many advantages.

As a material, I personally chose TechnoNIKOL Rocklight basalt mats 50 mm thick, dimensions 1200 by 600 mm. They are perfect for the task at hand. The price of this material is 590 rubles for a package of 0.432 cubic meters, or 68 rubles in terms of square meter.

But of course, the trip to the store will not end with the purchase of a heater. You still need to stock up on other materials:

1. Wooden bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm. Of these, a crate will be made for mounting mineral mats on the walls.
2. Wooden bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm. They are needed to insulate the floor. These will be the supporting elements on which I will fix the boards from below before mounting the heat-insulating material on them. I will also use them as counter rails on top of the heat reflective foil.
3. Black boards. Necessary for thermal insulation of the floor (see point above).
4. Wooden eurolining. This will be the clean material for decorative wall in sauna. It is necessary to take hardwood lining, since pine emits when heated a large number of resins.
5. Galvanized perforated U-shaped hangers. They are usually used to install a galvanized profile, but for me they will hold wooden bars. Their advantage is that they allow you to easily and simply align the walls in case the latter deviate from the vertical.
6. Aluminium foil. If your bath is made according to frame technology or brick, the foil can be replaced with penofol, which will serve as an additional insulation.
7. Metallic adhesive tape. It seals the joints between adjacent sheets of aluminum foil.

Now about the tools. You will need:

• screwdriver;
• construction stapler with staples;
• stationery knife;
• building level;
• tape measure and other measuring devices;
• brush.

Warming technology

Warming inside the sauna provides for three stages of work or, as I said, lines of defense, which are reflected in the diagram.

I will tell about each of them in more detail.

Line 1 - Thermal insulation of walls

Let's start with the walls. The scheme of the warming cake for them is shown in the figure below.

The technology of work is as follows:

1. I clean the surface of the walls from dust and sawdust. To do this, I take a regular vacuum cleaner (although I also have an industrial Karcher in my arsenal) and with the help of its brush I suck out all the debris from all the cracks between the bars. Otherwise, small particles of wood can become a hotbed of mold development in the ceiling insulation layer.

1. I remove protruding parts of fasteners (screws, nails, wire) from the wall. These sharp parts can damage the waterproofing membrane, which prevents the insulation layer from getting wet as a result of moisture penetrating from above.
2. I treat the surface with an antiseptic. It is necessary to take a composition intended for use in residential premises, which during operation does not emit hazardous chemical compounds into the air. The walls are treated with a brush in two layers with intermediate drying for three to four hours. If the timber was pre-treated, then it is not necessary to additionally coat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic.

1. Installing a waterproofing membrane. Some people replace it with a thick plastic film, but I still recommend buying a special material (for example, Stroteks or Juta brands) that protect against water, but do not prevent water vapor from escaping from the thermal insulation layer. The installation scheme is as follows:
   • The first sheet of the membrane is laid, after which it is fixed on wooden beams with the help of staples and a construction stapler.
   • The second and subsequent sheets of the membrane are laid in such a way that the joints of the material overlap with each other at a distance of at least 10 cm.
   • The seams are sealed with a waterproof membrane. For this, adhesive tape is used, glued on top of the joint.

1. I am fixing the battens. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
   • On the wall at a distance of 50 cm from each other vertically I fix U-shaped brackets, which will hold wooden bars frame. The frame can be fixed not only vertically, but also horizontally. This fact does not affect the effectiveness of insulation.
   • I treat wooden parts with an antiseptic and flame retardant. These substances will protect the wood from ignition in case of fire and prevent the appearance of mold, fungus and other unpleasant microorganisms in the insulation layer. After processing, wooden bars should dry completely, which takes up to a day.
   • I install the details of the crate on the brackets. For this, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into side surfaces wooden details. In this case, you need to ensure that they are all installed strictly vertically and at the same level. Otherwise, problems may arise during the installation of the finishing lining.

• The distance between the bars should be equal to 58-59 cm, so that the TechnoNIKOL Rocklight insulation boards, the width of which, as you know, reaches 60 cm, become wide open and do not fall out during operation.

• After the installation is completed, it is necessary to carefully check the correct installation of the crate bars again. For this, U-shaped brackets are needed in order to easily align the enclosing walls that are slightly inclined to one side or another.

1. I mount the heat-insulating layer in a pre-installed crate. For this, as I said, I took the material of the TechnoNikol company. If you clearly follow all the above tips, then there will be no problems. The scheme of work is as follows:

Entire slabs of mineral wool insulation are inserted into the crate. Since the distance between the parts is maintained at 58 cm, they are installed at a distance and do not require the use of any other fasteners.

• For thermal insulation of other areas (where the slab does not fit as a whole), pre-cut mineral wool must be used. To do this, you need to measure the distance between adjacent parts of the frame, increase the resulting value by 2 cm, mark up and cut the plates with a sharp clerical knife.

1. Installing a layer of vapor barrier. Instead of a conventional polymer membrane, polished aluminum foil will be used here, which is capable of not only retaining water vapor, but also reflecting infrared rays into the room. The work is done as follows:
   • The first sheet of vapor barrier is laid. The roll is located horizontally (since my frame is vertical). Work starts from the bottom of the room. The foil is fixed to the frame using a construction stapler and staples. It is necessary to act carefully so that gaps do not form in a continuous reflective layer through which moisture can enter the insulation layer.

• The second and subsequent sheets of foil are laid in such a way that an overlap of 10 cm is formed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joint. This ensures the tightness and homogeneity of the heat-reflecting layer.

• The joints between the sheets of foil must be glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. To do this, a protective layer of paper is removed from one side of the tape, after which it is glued to the joint of the foil. Perform the operation carefully so as not to damage the heat-reflecting layer.

1. I mount the counter rails to secure the finish. Their role is played by wooden bars, which are installed on top of the reflective foil layer. They are necessary in order to leave a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and decorative material. Through this gap, condensed moisture will evaporate without penetrating into the insulation layer.

• Laths for counter-cladding must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting.
• The slats are fixed on the frame through a layer of metallized foil using self-tapping screws so that the caps of the latter do not rise above the surface of the wooden parts.
• The distance between the slats should be from 40 to 60 cm so that the decorative cladding does not sag under load.

1. I install the finishing cladding from lime eurolining. To fix it, I use clamps that allow you to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated.

Line 2 - Thermal insulation of the ceiling

I will make the insulation of the ceiling from expanded clay. At the beginning of work, my ceiling was simply wooden logs laid across the room - without top and bottom cladding. Therefore, I will describe the insulation technology, starting from this stage:

1. Hemmed the ceiling from the inside with sheets of moisture-resistant FSF birch plywood 10 mm thick. The scheme of work is as follows:
   • The plywood is fixed with the help of self-tapping screws, which must be placed at a distance of 10 cm from each other in order to provide the most solid foundation for adding expanded clay. Although this material is lightweight, it does not interfere with reinsurance.
   • When fixing the plywood, the seams must be spaced apart and a distance of 2-3 mm should be made between them, due to which the thermal expansion of the plywood is compensated.
   • To avoid warping of the skin, it is also better to make a small gap between the walls and plywood.

1. I attached a layer of heat-reflecting foil to the plywood. You already know the fixing technology from the previous section, so I won’t repeat it. The main thing is to carefully glue all the seams with aluminum adhesive tape.

1. I installed counter rails on the foil, and on them - a wooden lining. Proceed in the same way as in the case of wall insulation. There are no differences here.
2. I cleaned the surface of the plywood from dust, debris and chips from the attic side. Now work continues in the attic. It is necessary to clean the logs from foreign objects and sawdust, which can cause mold in the expanded clay insulation layer.
3. Expanded clay was poured into the space between the lags on a plywood filing. The technology is as simple as possible, but I will draw your attention to a few small nuances:
   • The insulation will work effectively if its layer is at least 10 cm. I had logs of the same height, so I poured the granules flush with the upper cut of the floor beams.
   • If your logs are higher, then fill up the expanded clay on a level (even if the layer is thicker). Otherwise, the procedure for installing a waterproofing film will become more complicated.
   • The size of expanded clay granules does not matter. The more air there is in the heat-insulating layer, the lower the thermal conductivity coefficient it will have.
   • For work, you need to use a well-dried material, since the moisture inside can be very detrimental to the integrity and service life wooden structures, as well as reduce the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

1. Fixed waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane. I recommend purchasing a polymer material with a permeability of at least 1300 mg per square meter. In this case, the moisture accumulated inside the expanded clay will go outside, and the liquid will not get into the insulation layer. The fixing scheme is as follows:

• If expanded clay is poured up to the upper edge of the beams, then you just need to fix the film on top of the wooden parts with a stapler and staples.
• If expanded clay does not reach the top, then the film must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the beams with the help of bars. The essence of this operation is that between the insulation and the film there is no free space otherwise the membrane will make noise during operation.
• The joints, as in the cases described above, are overlapped and additionally sealed with adhesive tape.

1. Installed a counter. It is necessary only in the case when the film is fixed on the top of the logs. The counter-lattice is made of bars, which are attached to wooden parts with self-tapping screws.
2. Completed the finishing touches interfloor overlap grooved board. I chose this material, since in the future it is planned to equip a rest room in the attic of the bath. If you do not plan to convert the under-roof space into a living space, you can also replace the boards with plywood.

Line 3 - Floor insulation

Floor insulation is similar to ceiling insulation with the exception of a few nuances:

• it is not possible to get under the bottom of the house to fix the sheathing of the floor lags, there is not so much space;
• it is necessary to perform the highest quality waterproofing of the floor, since its surface often experiences direct contact with water (especially in the shower room).

Since I did not have enough expanded clay, I will use mineral wool to insulate the floor. To make it more understandable for you to follow the presentation, I will give a schematic image of a warming cake for the floor in the sauna:

The sequence of actions that I followed:

1. I attached cranial bars to the lower part of the side surfaces of the floor lags (number 3 in the diagram). To fix them, I used self-tapping screws plus galvanized corners for the fortress, used in the construction of frame houses.
2. I fixed a vapor-permeable membrane that prevents the insulation from being moistened by moisture penetrating from below (from under the floor). To do this, the film is fixed on the bars, after which the logs of the floor are wrapped around it, forming a kind of trough in which the insulation will be placed.
3. I installed the subfloor boards (in the diagram at number 5). They are placed directly on the film so that the ends rest on the cranial bars. This will be the supporting surface, on which the heat-insulating material is then laid.

In the photo - laid subfloor boards.

1. I put mineral wool in the gaps between the lags. Here you will figure it out yourself, since I paid a lot of attention to this aspect in the previous sections.

1. I laid a waterproofing film on top to protect the insulating layer from getting wet.
2. The floor was made of grooved boards on top.

In principle, in most cases this is enough. But if the floor is insulated in the shower room or you like to splash a lot of water in the steam room, I recommend making another waterproofing layer of polymer mastic on top of the boards, which is tiled. And from above, if necessary, install torrential wooden ladders.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate a sauna from the inside using basalt fiber insulation. But other materials are also used for this. For example, to insulate the floor, you can use foam, as described in the video in this article.

And what thermal insulation materials do you use to insulate the walls from the inside? Or do you prefer to install heaters only outside? You can post your answers in the comments to the material.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

To find out what kind of insulation for a bath on the walls, and on other structural elements, it is recommended to visit various construction sites on the Internet. The market is saturated with a variety of materials for insulation, and in order to make your choice, you need to study their composition, service life, and cost. Only in this way can you decide to purchase the desired insulation for the walls of the bath.

An example of warming a bath with expanded clay

Insulation for saunas and baths, which is to be chosen for insulation, must have the following qualities:

• be combined with the materials used in the construction;
• be stably strong, not losing their qualities from temperature changes;
• resist the occurrence of condensate and the development of destructive manifestations of a biological nature;
• be moisture resistant and have excellent insulating properties;
• contain environmentally friendly components and have a certificate confirming compliance with sanitary standards;
• create conditions for convenient installation and the possibility of finishing with a heat insulator along the entire contour of the log house without slots and holes.

Opportunities for perfect results

It is possible to achieve efficiency in arranging the best insulation by combining several materials.

Some owners decide to build a “warm floor” system in the bath, which will require a special heater. For others, the following may apply:

• various granular fillings;
• lightweight extruded insulation;
• fiber material;
• specialized mats, plates, rolls;
• liquid insulation of polymeric origin.

Various layers of polyethylene film, kraft paper used in the dressing room can also be used for insulation. A mixture prepared according to folk recipe: sawdust mixed with clay or a similar composition. You should not use roofing felt and roofing material as a heater, which emit harmful fumes.

Varieties of materials

To find out which insulation is best for a bath, you need to understand those that exist and make a choice.


Conditionally available heaters can be divided into the following:

• intervention;
• mineral;
• polymeric;
• foil.

Mezhventsovy heater for a bath

Representatives of natural heaters have long been widely used for. These include: felt, jute, hemp, hemp and others. We can talk about these varieties - these are interventional heat insulators. They are valuable in that they have natural air exchange, antibacterial properties, do not rot and perfectly caulk the seams. In addition, the price of such materials is low.

The disadvantage of such heaters is the following: they can be chosen by various living microorganisms that exude the product, and it quickly becomes unprofitable. Fortunately, there are various means prepared for the destruction of pests.

The purpose of such a heater

In order to know which interventional insulation to choose, you need to decide: for what purposes it is needed. It is used to:

• preserve and strengthen the thermal insulation of wood and extend its life;
• avoid the penetration of moisture and the development of harmful bacteria, insects;
• ensure vapor permeability.

Mezhventsovy insulation is placed between the logs, as well as around windows and door frames.
Properly selected material will give the bath room low thermal conductivity, not blown walls, balanced balance of moisture absorption and evaporation.


It is impossible to say unequivocally: which interventional insulation is better, everything is determined by the type of structure and the desire of the customer.

Insulation for a bath based on minerals

The best heater for a bath from a number of mineral ones is basalt wool, economical and convenient. It is produced in the form of mats consisting of stone wool. It can be used for insulation of almost all constituent surfaces of the bath complex. Basalt-based material for thermal insulation of a bath has the following advantages:

Basalt-based insulation is the most used material for arranging the insulation of bath walls from the inside, floors, ceilings and other building components.

Polymer heaters

Airy, high-quality, rational in equipment heat-insulating materials based on polymer components resist moisture and significant temperatures well. Among them are:

• plastic: foam;
• honeycomb materials: foam plastics;
• insulating: polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene.

The industrial representatives of these heaters produced today contain fire retardants, which help prevent ignition and attenuation of sparks that have fallen. The material is moisture resistant, effective in use. It can be used when warming the floor in the bath, for the outer cladding of the building. Foam glass can be attributed to this group of heat insulators. This representative has signs of stone wool and foam. It is strong, non-flammable, water resistant.

It is very comfortable to work with him, sawing with tools, attaching to the right places.

What you need to know about polymers

In the case of using polymeric heaters, one should not forget about the presence of an unchanged layer, otherwise condensation will accumulate on the material. You also need to know that when heated, phenol vapors are released from the foam, so it can only be used for the exterior of the log cabin of the bath.

Foil heaters

Similar materials - good decision because they have a reflective surface that returns most of the heat. This allows you to significantly reduce fuel consumption and the period of heating the steam room. In addition, such heaters have excellent characteristics in operation:

Foil insulators are rarely used for outdoor work, they are used outside when or.

Types of foil insulation

There are such representatives for bath rooms:

It is recommended to combine various heaters for a bath, for example, finish the ceiling with foil, on fabric, and place insulation in rolls or basalt on the walls. Recommended heaters for various sections of the bath

Implementation of thermal insulation of walls

At the end of the construction block or brick building, it is necessary to produce . In addition, the steam room will need to be insulated. Then the walls and partitions in the bath are sheathed with eurolining. This material has low thermal conductivity and contains some resin.

Preferring a heat insulator for the walls of the bath, it is recommended to prefer mineral wool. It is fire-resistant, perfectly tolerates strong heating and creates conditions for long-term preservation of heat.

When laying it, you must adhere to the following sequence:

• equipment of a hydrobarrier with the help of a specialized film;
• placement of mineral wool;
• laying foil to create a vapor barrier;
• sheathing wooden clapboard or other selected material.

To make insulation cheaper, it is possible to use sawdust, chips, shavings mixed in a ratio of 10 to 1 with gypsum or lime. This mixture must be covered with a layer of 20 cm inside the skin.

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then most likely you have thought: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensate. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It doesn’t matter if the steam room is built into the room or is it separate standing structure, it needs to be insulated. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

The wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a “perfect” microclimate in the steam room.

In order for wood to serve longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - flame retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, anti-mould chemical coatings at high temperatures will release noxious fumes.

The main "ally" wood flooring- insulation, which should keep hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and prolongs the service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies compliance with the following points:

1. Steam must be accumulated and stored indoors.
2. The roof from the inside must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensate both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. the best way considered finishing with several layers:

1. First you need to use an insulating material that prevents the penetration of water.
2. Put a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall plates;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition, they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Quality insulation material should be:

• heat-resistant so that there is no fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensate does not accumulate;
• moisture resistant.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• filing from boards;
• beams
• sheathing.

A vapor barrier goes to the wall and ceiling, then a beam, then a heater. Can be used basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. The overspending of materials in this case is inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensate. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to heat a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-recycling oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay up to two centimeters in order to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensate).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of the floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture in the form of condensate through the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well waterproofed ceiling and volume brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, over aerated concrete walls put foam glass insulation with 50 mm thick plates, and then plaster and make decorative wood paneling.

Decking ceiling

You don't see him as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method used to be considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. Now this is the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. On the crowns of the log house, if small area premises (length no more than 2.5 m). As a floor, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, even more economical way– edged grooved options (25 mm).
2. Eat interesting option ceilings with unedged sanded boards. They are placed on 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room may be larger. The emphasis on the beams will add zest and will look great.
4. On a supporting frame made of rails. Suitable for small areas and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can fill the surface with expanded clay or cover it with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a load-bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or boards made of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This design is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GUI is taken and laid on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done in a flash.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be closed with another sheet.
4. From the bottom of the beams we fix the vapor barrier.
5. Then we attach the slats of wood.
6. On last step lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will receive extra bed for storage - attic or attic.

panel ceiling

It's hard to do it yourself. To begin with, a special design is made of panels. Then it must be fixed from above on the transverse beams or on upper part walls. How is the installation:

1. Boards are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
2. Then we fasten narrow boards to the inside of the PCB, they will be the sides.
3. The next step will be the laying of the PIP.
4. In the resulting space of the panels we put ecowool (or any other).
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
6. The final stage will be the installation of boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people began to apply the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

And you can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and may ignite. And for working with fiberglass, a good protective suit is shown.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• What material is the bath made of?
• what oven is worth.

How to insulate outside

In order for the steam to remain inside and not escape to the outside, you need to achieve the effect of a "thermos". Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need a heater for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “layered cake” from these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern types of heaters:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistance to overheating (fireproof).

Cotton wool thickness from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is laid on the PIP. To work with it, you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically advantageous, because little fuel is required to heat the room. This heater is:

• mineral wool with an aluminum film (produced in rolls and plates);
• foil-based polymer sheet (has a small thickness, is available in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation holds high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the whole steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath it is necessary to make competent ventilation.

Expanded clay

By appearance resembles small clay stones with pores. It absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak side. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• it does not form bacteria and fungi;
• cheap product;
• it is easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a foam in liquid form, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries);
• does not ignite;
• serves long time;
• it does not form mold and fungus.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as "grandfather". To do ready mix, you will need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
• no mold protection
• when dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Enough effective method keeping warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also light and spreads over the entire area, filling voids. Its main disadvantage is the absorption of moisture. This reduces thermal insulation.

Product Features for Insulation

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. There are the following types with a foil layer listed below:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• ruberoid;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide range of waterproofing products, such as foil-coated kraft paper, building membrane and other products, are available in specialized department stores. Although you can save money and buy a regular plastic film or roofing material.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused about a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors it is recommended to use expanded clay.

Special preliminary preparation is not required. For convenience, slats from a bar can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the even distribution of expanded clay. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay on the entire surface (thickness - 30 cm). A regular garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic will be used in the future and the floor is provided, then the expanded clay is laid according to the level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is quite suitable. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-perform method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But because of its cheapness, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 more for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help to avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, then the process will take place in several steps:

1. an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue-and-groove aspen rails are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. outside the roof we lay vapor barrier material;
5. on top of the laid mixture we distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
6. then we lay a film of polypropylene;
7. on top of the resulting structure we put boards, this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, then the result should be a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

dry method of insulation

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkin E.N. In their book they suggest the following method:

1. we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we process them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
3. we spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, and preferably a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and observe technological process, That:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less wood is required;
• the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive points, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• choose all the materials that will suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.