When we discuss a set of roofing materials, one of the most common questions is “do you really need waterproofing?”.

When it comes to a residential attic, the situation is already clear: yes, waterproofing is definitely needed, and not just any kind of waterproofing, but a diffusion membrane.

And when it comes to a cold attic, one sometimes recalls the village grandfather / grandmother, and maybe the parental home. And it confuses things a bit.

Most of us come from the countryside, urban dwellers in several generations are actually a minority. Therefore, we all remember such houses. And these houses stood for many decades, many still stand. And there was no waterproofing there at all ...

Maybe she doesn’t need it, and people are reinsured for how much in vain ...

Is it that simple? Let's figure out how the old ones lived without waterproofing village houses on a real example.

And let's take not the simplest case - a metal roof. Which, in addition to leaks, is also subject to condensation.

To do this, I climbed into the same grandmother's attic. First of all, I was convinced that the roof of the house, which had stood without a major overhaul for more than fifty years, is quite efficient and will stand for another “-twenty” years with proper care.

What is the secret of its longevity - even without waterproofing ...

1. Absorbent natural insulation.

In the attic there is a thick layer of absorbent material. In our case, a mixture of dry soil with pieces of bark and coniferous-deciduous litter. In different areas, the “recipes” for this backfill were different - depending on nature, traditions and local crafts. Only sawdust, clay with sawdust, various slags ... These backfills have in common that, firstly, they served as an affordable and inexpensive insulation, and secondly, they worked as an absorbent layer that could retain a fairly large amount of moisture inside - if suddenly the roof "dripped" with condensate or due to a leak.

Such a "diaper" did not allow moisture to interior decoration and floor beams.

Modern heaters, on the contrary, are made as hydrophobic as possible. This means that any significant leakage is likely to go immediately to the underlying layers.

2. Excellent attic ventilation.

Sewing gables - from a board with slots. Filing overhangs - from a board with slots. Roofs were usually made simple, architectural originality was not pursued. Our object, for example, is a simple "gable". As a result, even without special structures for air exchange, there are no problems with attic ventilation. Water vapor - whether hanging in the air in the form of fog, or evaporating from the insulation - quickly escapes with the movement of air.

Overhang filing (photo with flash and without)

Gable sewing (photo with flash and without)

Modern materials for finishing gables and filing overhangs, as a rule, they have poor air permeability and do not provide output to external environment a large number water vapor. Air vents and other cold attic ventilation designs are designed not to dry out leaks and dripping condensate, but to release a relatively small amount of excess moisture. In addition, modern roofs come in very complex shapes - and in such cold attics simple solutions ventilation will be insufficient.

3. Simplicity and accessibility of monitoring and repair.

attic in country house, although it was non-residential, it was almost always used to store various things and for other household needs. Therefore, they constantly climbed it. As a result, the roof was always under surveillance. And it was easy to inspect the roofs - nothing was covered with trim or intermediate layers, everything was in plain sight. As a result, leaks were easily noticed and quickly fixed. Temporarily - with a substituted basin, and then - with local repairs. With repairs, everything is also easier than on modern houses - it is easy to get to any place and to any node, even from above, even from below.

The modern way of life rarely leaves time to regularly inspect the roof for any minor defects. Nowadays Vacation home it is created in order to build everything reliably for decades - and to do other, more pleasant things.

Are the examples of old village houses argument for optional waterproofing? Probably not. Everything worked differently there.

Now - other materials, other standards of aesthetics and maintenance, otherwise the physics of the roofing system is built in modern houses.

We wish all parental homes that still serve faithfully, comfort and longevity.

And to everyone who builds new "family nests" - success in construction.

Useful materials

Currently, when building a private house, specialists use all kinds of roof structures, but most often they install a cold roof. it perfect option when the attic is not planned to be used as a living space. Below we will talk about how to properly install a cold roof from a metal tile.

The advantages of this option

The device of such a roof is quite simple - you will need to build a structure, lay a layer of waterproofing, crate and counter-lattice, roofing. The main thing, when erecting a cold roof, is to provide a ventilation gap for the possibility of removing condensed moisture. This is necessary so that the supporting structure and roofing material do not deteriorate under the influence of moisture.

By itself, the installation of such a roof should not be accompanied by complications in the process of work, it is only necessary to correctly fix the roofing so that it does not let precipitation through the joints into the under-roof space. Before creating a roofing pie for a cold attic, you should complete the entire list of calculations, determine the slope of the slopes, the step of the crate, and choose the appropriate method for fixing sheets of metal tiles.

What is a cold roof

The technology of a cold roof made of metal tiles involves the initial construction truss system, after which the membrane will be laid on it and polyethylene film to provide . They fill the counter-lattice, the crate and lay the roofing in the form of a metal tile.

Such a roof is characterized by the fact that it does not need to lay thermal insulation - all that is required is to equip ventilation outlets under the ridge and on the slopes to remove moisture. Make sure that all preliminary calculations are made as accurately as possible.

Roof installation has the following features:

1. If over time you plan to equip a warm roof, then the choice of a membrane for protection against moisture should be careful. If it is planned to equip the attic, then a PVC membrane must be present.
2. If in the future it is not planned to insulate the roof, then it will be necessary to lay microperforated waterproofing, which is used specifically for cold roofs. Thermal insulation cannot be laid with such a film, however, in case of further insulation, it will be necessary to purchase a new membrane. Otherwise, in the future, the roof will lose its protection from moisture, the insulation will not have time to dry out, and the roofing material will begin to rust over time.

Installation steps

Let's figure it out so that it lasts a long time. When laying the membrane to protect against moisture, it should be borne in mind that it should remain with a slight sag, somewhere around 20 mm. In this way, it will be possible to achieve a runoff of condensed moisture, thereby protecting the rafter system and other roof elements from decay. To enable water to evaporate in time, without stagnation and thus creating an unfavorable environment, care should be taken to include a ventilation gap in the project, which is located between the moisture-repellent film and the roof ridge.

This implies that the clearance will allow air flows to easily circulate in the space under the roof, removing all condensate. The installed membrane must be free of ruptures and other damage. To fix it, it is best to use a construction stapler. The layers of the membrane are laid with a slight overlap, and its edges are sealed with adhesive tape.

The structure of the roof with a cold attic is such that it can be used in regions with any climatic features. Quite a few people think that given type roofing is not applicable for the northern regions, although in fact this is not the case. Often in such regions, cold attic rooms are most often installed. The attic itself is insulated, and the cold roof in no way affects the internal microclimate of the upper floors. You can not even use the attic, because laying a layer of insulation between top floor and under-roof space eliminates all the nuances that affect heat loss.

When installing a cold roof made of metal tiles, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the ventilation openings, chimneys and access to the attic. In this case, it will be possible not to worry about the accumulation of condensate, icing, heat loss, or leakage of rain and melt water.

A cold roof can be covered with almost any roof covering, however, metal tiles, due to the ease of installation, are used much more often. Some other types of roofing materials, in particular soft roofing, are also well suited in this situation, but they require a lot of time and money during installation.

The structure of the roofing cake for metal tiles, including waterproofing

Covering a cold attic with a metal tile is the most convenient and easiest way to equip a roof. In this case, the roofing cake will consist of a waterproofing material laid on a rafter frame, battens and roofing(metal tiles). Actually, the laying of such a coating is carried out very quickly, the main thing is to understand correctly. The insulating film is fixed with staples or nails, then it is additionally pressed with a counter-lattice screwed with self-tapping screws. The lathing of the battens is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the metal tile. The board for the crate is taken with dimensions of 25-100 mm, and sometimes plywood or particle boards are used if continuous flooring is required.

Laying a film or membrane for attic waterproofing is done freely, with some sagging. However, it is worth making sure that the integrity of the coating is not violated, that is, any holes or cracks are excluded. As a rule, the film can sag by 15-25 mm. Thus, ventilation of the inner side of the waterproofing membrane is achieved, removal of condensed moisture to the eaves and further to the drain is ensured. Neglecting such a simple rule will eventually provoke premature deformation of the roof frame and the entire roof.

The peculiarity of a metal roof is such that the film for a cold roof is not able to reduce the noise level that occurs during intense rain falling on the metal. Therefore, living quarters with such roofing are provided with a layer of thermal insulation that absorbs strong noise. Without such a layer, only non-residential attic spaces are usually equipped.

So, a cold roof will include the following layers:

• From the inside of the room, a vapor barrier is laid for a cold roof, which only releases moisture to the outside and prevents it from penetrating into the living rooms.
• Next, install the truss frame for the roof.
• The next layer is mounted waterproofing material. The film is laid with sagging to drain condensate.
• Next, a counter-lattice is attached, which presses the waterproofing, fixing it, and provides ventilation gaps.
• Then the crate is stuffed to fix the roofing. It is made of slats 50 × 50 mm and is laid along the slopes with an indent of 35-45 cm. Based on the type of roofing and the slope of the slopes, the step of the crate and the thickness of the board for it may vary.
• The last is the metal tile flooring.

Tools and consumables for a cold attic device

It is noteworthy that the laying of metal tiles does not require too complex professional construction tools. You can use the elementary set that every man has in his household.

In addition to lumber for truss framing, battens and counter battens, an insulating membrane or film is required for vapor and waterproofing, as well as enough metal tile sheets purchased from one batch.

All elements are fastened with brackets, self-tapping screws, galvanized nails and even anchor bolts. However, it is worth remembering that they must be of high quality so that the roof does not begin to collapse ahead of time.

As for laying roofing, in addition to profile sheets, ridge elements, valleys (internal and external), cornice and wind strips, as well as snow retainers and gutters will be required.

The main difference between a cold roof and a warm one is the presence in the latter of a layer of insulating material placed between the layers of hydro and vapor barrier. It is advisable to perform a cold roof only if the attic will not be used as a living space.

The roof protects the house from the rain. But how to protect the roof? The first thing that comes to mind is the finish. But its functions are slightly different, due to the fact that moisture can still penetrate through the roofing material. On the way of moisture, a real barrier and, in fact, the only protector of the roof from getting wet and the harmful effects of water is waterproofing.

The need for waterproofing a cold roof

The main task of roofing is to protect buildings from wind loads and precipitation. If without fail there must be three layers under the roof of an insulated attic (insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing), then there may be nothing at all under the roofing of an unheated attic. However, in practice, on the other hand, a waterproofing layer is still mounted.

If the water sources were only outside, then you could, in principle, do without waterproofing a cold roof, while hoping that the quality of the roof itself would guarantee the absence of 100% wind, snow, rain and any leaks. With proper installation of some types of roofing, this is true.

But the problem lies not in the precipitation itself, but in their condensate, that is, drops that fall from the inside of the roofing. The likelihood that condensation will occur increases if, for example, engineering equipment through the attic. These can be fireplace pipes, chimneys, as well as various elements of heating and hot water systems.

No matter how effective the insulation is, heat is always released, which is why a significant temperature difference occurs in the attic. Depending on the temperature in the air, different quantity moisture, and when warmer air is transferred to the roof, it reaches the dew point, which leads to condensation.

Therefore, there is no doubt the need for waterproofing a cold roof made of metal, which makes it possible to facilitate the process of converting an attic into a residential attic, if you have such a desire. Therefore, it is not necessary to neglect the waterproofing of the roof, which protects the roofed space from condensing and atmospheric moisture.

In principle, in cold attics, all types of materials can be used for roof waterproofing: anti-condensation films, diffusion membranes and ordinary films. The owners most often choose anti-condensate films, they are cheaper than diffusion membranes. And their advantage over conventional films is that they have a fleecy layer on the inside, thanks to which they can retain condensate for a certain time, until conditions for moisture evaporation are created.

In a cold roof, a waterproofing film is installed under the profiled sheets at a distance of 5 centimeters (an additional structure is made for this purpose). With this, the temperature will equalize on the inside and outside of the sheets. A properly installed cold roof insulation system will provide just as much benefit in terms of structural integrity as the roof covering itself.

Roof waterproofing materials

For a variety of roofs used as waterproofing various materials: starting from the widespread roofing material in rolls and various mastics, to superdiffusion membranes. What material to buy depends on the roofing pie and operating conditions. First of all, you need to decide on the roofing cake, and the choice of waterproofing material for a cold roof will happen on its own.

Coating insulation

Mastics are used as an independent type of waterproofing for flat and self-leveling roofs. But usually coating insulation is used as an auxiliary measure. Namely, for the purpose of repairing various rolled roofs, sealing displaced joints and cracks in rolled material, sealing dormer windows, pipe outlets, additional insulation of the ridge part, valleys, end parts and gluing bituminous tiles.

For the installation of a mastic roof, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the base from exfoliating parts, dust, and dirt. It is also recommended to additionally impregnate the base with a degreasing compound or a bituminous primer. But mastics cannot be used for sloped roofs as independent waterproofing.

Ruberoid

A very common and popular material for cold roofing, as it is relatively inexpensive. It is used for roofs with an angle of inclination from 0 to 25%. But still, he is rapidly losing his fans. The fact is that the roofing material has a low durability, and after some time of operation, all its shortcomings appear: the bituminous material is destroyed under the influence of UV, the cardboard base rots, integrity is broken, and leaks begin. In addition, it is based on exclusively combustible materials.

Its new analogue with some eliminated shortcomings is euroroofing material, which is based on non-rotting material (polyester, fiberglass, fiberglass), which is covered with a special modified bituminous composition. Such euroroofing material has a greater durability and, accordingly, a higher price than its predecessor, but is still combustible and not environmentally friendly. It follows from this that the use of euroruberoid for roofing on small areas often not beneficial. But if this flat roofs, then this option is suitable.

glassine

Glassine was once a fairly popular roofing waterproofing agent used in cold roof installations. It was he who replaced the roofing material, but also lost his popularity. The reason for this is rapid aging, low strength, loss of thermal insulation characteristics, and environmental friendliness. This insulation option is the cheapest, but at the same time short-lived. It follows from this that glassine can be used exclusively for temporary protection of roofing.

Membranes and films

Waterproofing films also include membranes made of polypropylene or PVC. Such materials are gaining popularity for several reasons: high waterproofing performance, high base strength, vapor permeability, durability (up to about 50 years).

Membranes are divided into the following types: diffusion, pseudodiffusion, superdiffusion and anticondensate. Each type has its own characteristics of application and its own purpose. Well, the price of membranes, unlike other waterproofing materials, is quite high. Moreover, their cost is often proportional to the characteristics of a particular material.

Pseudo-diffusion membranes are a film with a fairly low level vapor permeability - up to 300 g / m2 / 24 hours. Such a film can be used to protect a cold corrugated roof. In this case, there are no restrictions on its adaptation. If it is used in an insulated roof pie, then it is necessary to make a ventilation gap between the insulation and the film. For its device, an additional crate should be made. Because of this, the cost of such insulation may increase and amount to an amount equal to a conventional diffusion membrane.

Superdiffusion and diffusion membranes are called perforated film with high (more than 1000 g/m2/24 h) and medium (equal to 400-1000 g/m2/24 h) vapor permeability. For waterproofing a cold roof, this vapor permeability is sufficient. A ventilation gap is not required with this film. Such membranes have many advantages: they can be installed directly on the insulation; removes steam from the inside and at the same time does not let moisture in; it is a wind protection for the insulation, it retains heat in the under-roof space; in a dusty environment does not lose performance.

However, this material forms upper plane when steam is removed, condensate, therefore, it cannot be used under the roof due to the fact that it can corrode. If the finish coating is made of metal (zinc, steel, aluminum, copper), volumetric diffuse membranes are used. The layer that comes into contact with the roofing material acts as a kind of separator, which absorbs and thereby removes condensate from the metal roofing.

Anti-condensation membranes are also used for seam and metal roofs. The fleecy "carpet" is on one side of the film. With this side, it is turned outward to the finish coating, as shown in the video about the cold roof of metal. It is necessary to arrange a ventilation gap under the insulation, since with such protection the vapor permeability approaches zero.

Do-it-yourself cold roof waterproofing

Waterproofing that is properly built should be like a layer cake that needs a backing. Its composition depends on the type of substrate itself. Under a cold roof, this layer is performed as follows. The frame is laid on roof structures from counter-lattices and crates. A waterproofing material is laid on the crate and pressed against the counter-crate.

For counter battens best material is a rail impregnated with a flame retardant solution or antiseptic, 4-5 centimeters wide and 2-3 centimeters thick. It is necessary to lay the boards of the crate horizontally, and vertically - the boards of the counter-batten. In this case, channels should be formed between the slats of the counter-lattice, which have a height of 2-3 centimeters. They are needed for ventilation of the roof. Maintain such a distance between the rails that the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe channels is equal to 1/100 of the roof area.

Steam moisture can be removed by ventilation. With a roof slope of one hundred square meters, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bgeneral ventilation ducts should be one square meter. Up to the ridge of the roof must pass ventilation ducts so that moisture vapor can freely escape through the holes in the upper part of the roof.

The procedure for waterproofing a cold roof structure is as follows. Lay the overlapping waterproofing film along the roof eaves in successive rows. Lay the material horizontally, moving from the eaves to the roof ridge. The width of the overlap depends on the degree of slope of the roof, which is in the range of 10-20 centimeters.

The film is fixed using galvanized nails with a wide hat or staples of a construction stapler. The place where the film is joined is glued with adhesive tape to obtain complete tightness of the attic waterproofing. The subsequent layers of the waterproofing film are laid in exactly the same way. Their number is determined independently.

Between the rafters, the sagging of the film should be about twenty millimeters. There must be an air pocket of 40 millimeters between the thermal insulation and the film. In order to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, a ridge air should be made on the ridge, that is, a gap between the axis of the ridge and the edge of the film. The required indent distance is 50 millimeters.

In areas where pipes, antennas and other communications are installed, the waterproofing film is attached to closely spaced lathing bars, having previously cut it. Use a construction stapler or double-sided tape. When skylights make out the film, you must always follow the special instructions from the manufacturer of the material. A counter-lattice is nailed over the film with an interval between the bars of 10-15 centimeters.

Thus, with properly installed waterproofing, the overall service life of the insulation, roofing, and, of course, the entire roof will be extended. Therefore, it is necessary to be responsible in the choice protective material from moisture and strictly follow the technology of laying waterproofing.

Any roofing material is not perfect. Even in its main quality - protection from moisture. And in cases where the roof is impeccably covered, and there are no leaks during rain or snow melt, there is still condensation on the inside of the roof.

To protect the rafter system and the attic of a cold roof from condensate, waterproofing is laid as part of a roofing pie. And the fact that it also protects against “small” leaks is a bonus in the form of a margin of time to eliminate roof leaks.

In what cases is waterproofing under a cold roof necessary?

There are not so many roofing materials. If we consider only, the list will be reduced to a few species. And depending on the characteristics of the material itself, the laying technology and the purpose of the building, waterproofing is not always needed.

metal roof

Metal roofing can be sheet and piece. Sheet materials are , . Piece covering - roofing checker and roofing scales.

Regardless of the size of the element and the laying technology, the “layered” is the same for everyone:

• rafters;
• waterproofing;
• a counter-lattice to provide a mandatory ventilation gap;
• crate;
• roof.

The presence of waterproofing and ventilation gap of the under-roof space is mandatory both for heated houses of year-round residence, and for unheated cottages or outbuildings.

Any roofing metal has high thermal conductivity and low heat capacity. With a daily decrease in temperature, the roof cools down much faster than the air inside the attic. And it will appear almost daily, even in summer.

In winter, if the building is heated, the air in the attic will be even warmer - any thermal insulation of the ceiling is not absolute. As well as any vapor barrier does not provide complete protection against the penetration of vapors. warm air into the attic from the room. And there are also chimneys and ventilation ducts, which also serve as a source of heat.

Waterproofing protects the attic and truss system. And so that the counter-lattice and crate do not get wet, there must be a ventilation gap in the under-roof space.

Slate and ondulin

Although these materials are different in composition, the likelihood of condensation on their surface is low.

Slate is best in this regard. Its surface texture can be compared with an anti-condensate waterproofing film. A rough surface can retain condensate until the condition of evaporation and weathering occurs. Therefore, for a cold slate roof, waterproofing is not needed.

An example is apartment buildings Soviet-built - in most "Khrushchev" slates are laid on the crate without waterproofing. And the only reason an attic gets wet is roof leaks.

Ondulin has almost the same properties. On the manufacturer's website, as one of the "economy" options for installing a cold roof, a laying diagram without waterproofing is given. And this option is suitable for country houses and seasonal dachas, summer kitchens and outbuildings.

For permanent residences, slate and ondulin roofing without waterproofing is considered insufficiently reliable. And here it is recommended to lay waterproofing roll materials. standard - the film is attached to the rafters with a slight sag, the beam of the counter-lattice is stuffed on top and.

Roof tiles

There are several types of roofing material where this term is present:

Bituminous tiles. Waterproofing is provided at the level of installation technology from the manufacturer. This, which serves at the same time as an additional fixing element. The bitumen contained in the tiles and the carpet is sintered together when the roof is heated from the sun.

Composite tiles. This is a kind of metal tile with a small sheet size. The differences are in the composition of the protective and decorative layer. As with any metal roof, waterproofing must be laid under it.

Ceramic and cement-sand tiles. They differ from each other in composition, shape, manufacturing technology. But despite this, the installation takes place according to general principles. And manufacturers of these types of roofing also specify the presence of waterproofing in the description.

What waterproofing materials can be used

There are three types of modern materials:

superdiffusion membranes. Differ in good waterproofing properties and high vapor permeability. In cold roofs, they are rarely used due to the high cost and excessive "breathing" properties. The main purpose is to protect the insulated roof. They are laid on uninsulated roofs if there are plans for its further insulation and or an exploited attic.

diffusion membranes. Good waterproofing properties and average vapor permeability. The optimal choice for slate, ondulin, ceramic and cement-sand tiles.

Waterproof films with anti-condensation surface. This is a versatile material that has high waterproofing properties and limited vapor permeability. Such materials can also be used as a vapor barrier.
Recommended as . They block most of the water vapor in the warm air, which is then vented through the eaves and ridge ventilation of the attic and through the dormer window.

How to properly install film

The waterproofing film is mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of panels of at least 15 cm. Fastening is carried out to the rafters. Between the rafters, the film should sag, but not more than 2 cm. Additionally, a sealing tape is glued on top, and then a bar of counter-lattice is nailed.

If it is necessary to increase the web along the length, then the junction should fall on rafter leg. The extension is also done with an overlap of 15 cm.

The superdiffusion film on the ridge is laid without tearing. When installing other types of waterproofing materials in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge, a “gap” of about 5 cm should be left on each side.

Can ruberoid be used?

Sometimes as waterproofing pitched roof roofing material and its analogues are used. But these materials are intended for waterproofing a flat roof over a continuous floor.

The technological map of the TechnoNikol company for the installation of bituminous roll materials indicates that the roofing material is fixed to the base using mastics or fusing.

Mechanical fasteners at large angles of roof slope are used as an additional "point" fixation to prevent slipping bituminous waterproofing in hot weather. And this limits the scope of the use of roofing material on pitched roofs.

On those roofs where the slope angles are large and the roofing technology is solid, the crate is not needed, it is not economically profitable to arrange it, even though the roofing material is cheaper than waterproofing films. And only mechanical fasteners along the row crate do not provide sufficient fixation reliability due to the low tensile strength of the roofing material.

Insulation of the attic floor refers to a greater extent to cold rooms that are not used as residential, that is, with an uninsulated roofing system and natural ventilation. In such cases, the attic floor becomes a kind of boundary between heat and cold, where the likelihood of condensate moisture is especially high. Interestingly, with such a responsible job, you can quite simply handle it yourself.

Why you need to insulate the attic

To install a roof slope, you need to adhere to a certain angle of inclination. It is formed between the rafters and the floor beams located on the upper part of the walls of the house. They form the floor of the attic. For technical work, a boardwalk is installed under them.

Timely insulation of the attic floor of the house is necessary for the following:

• Reducing heat loss through the top floor. Warm air rises, so the ceiling of the last floor of the house should be as isolated as possible from the effects of air from an unheated attic space. Good thermal insulation allows you to keep the temperature in the living quarters of the order of the dew point. The result of any violations will be condensation formed on the ceiling, and in just a few weeks there will be a need to repair it.
• Waterproofing. The correct configuration of the heat-insulating layer implies the mandatory installation of waterproofing materials. If a roof leak occurs, moisture should not penetrate into the living room.
• The difference in temperatures in the areas where floors and walls adjoin becomes a decisive factor for the occurrence of mold and microscopic fungi - the causative agents of various allergic diseases.

In fact, this is an arrangement of a durable and durable coating from a material for thermal insulation with low thermal conductivity.

Attention

Material of dubious quality or non-compliance with technology can lead to sad consequences.

Attic insulation requirements

Insulation of the attic floor of the house, its quality, significantly affects not only heat loss, but also the durability of the truss system and roofing. Water vapor from internal warm rooms diffuse intensively into the attic, but, as you know, in order for the insulation to provide the calculated efficiency of thermal insulation, it must be dry. Therefore, it is protected from moistening by warm air vapors by laying a vapor-tight material on the “warm” side.

Good steam and heat insulation, in addition to thermal protection, contribute to the durability of the roof structure. Indeed, in the absence of vapor barrier, water vapor penetrates through the ceiling into the attic, condenses from the side of the attic on the surface of the roof covering and drains onto the rafters. As a result metal coatings and parts corrode, wooden rafters and roofing cake are destroyed.

The thermal insulation properties of the structure are also reduced due to a violation of the tightness of the vapor barrier layer.

Drying the layer and removing moisture from the attic space helps its ventilation through the vents: ridge, cornice, as well as slotted and dormer windows. To ensure optimal ventilation intensity, the total area of ​​the ventilation openings should be about 0.2–0.5% of the attic floor.

Competently carried out work prevents the intensive formation of icicles on the roof. After all, how do icicles appear? If it is poorly insulated, the heat, having passed through it, begins to heat the roof, melting the snow lying on it. The resulting water, flowing down the roof, freezes and turns into icicles.

Insulation of the attic floor is almost always carried out not from the side of the living quarters, but from the floor of the attic. Performed in several ways. The choice of technology depends on the constructive solution of the structure and the used insulation.

Insulation of beam ceilings

An option for preserving heat in a similar design is between the beams. Usually, their height is enough for this, in case of shortage, you can stuff a bar on top. The ceiling from below is sewn up with molded material, say, clapboard or sheets of drywall, and the subfloor of the attic is laid on top of the beams: sheets of plywood, OSB, MDF, etc.

The insulation must be laid on a layer of special vapor barrier or polyethylene film.

On a note

If the material is foiled, then lay it down with the shiny side.

The gap between the beams is then filled with insulation of the required thickness. It is recommended to lay an additional layer of insulation on top of the beams, so it will be possible to avoid "cold bridges" and reduce possible heat losses.

If high-quality, well-crafted timber is used for the beams, then the finish, say, a massive board, is laid directly on the beams. Insulation is placed between them, and the attic floor is laid on top. This technology is quite common in houses made of logs or timber.

Lightweight fibrous materials are blown through by air currents, drafts, that is, heat is removed from them. These troubles, of course, can be avoided if protection is provided with windproof vapor-permeable materials. Thus, the thermal protection of the attic is improved. Moreover, the insulation is protected from moisture droplets. let's say the roof has minor damage and minor leaks.

The insulation must be protected from the wind and from the side of the eaves. For this, high-density slabs are usually used. mineral wool or a wooden board left by the edge.

It will ensure the full preservation of heat at home by a partial entry of thermal insulation on the outer wall.

What heaters are most often used

The installation technology is practically no different from the traditional floor for residential premises. It is important to choose the right material for the manufacture of a heat insulator. Recently, most often they make the insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool.

Why mineral wool?

it thermal insulation material made from basalt rocks of volcanic origin. They pass heat treatment in a special drum type furnace. During this process, the molten mass swells and is pulled into fibers. To form a dense material, they are processed with special binders.

As a result, a material unique in its properties is formed, which is successfully used for warming the attic floor. For an objective analysis, it can be compared with other types of heat insulators - and.

• Thermal insulation. The heat transfer coefficient for mineral wool is 0.035 W/m*K. In polystyrene, it is slightly higher - 0.04 W / m * K. Expanded clay has the worst performance - 0.4 W / m * k.
• Hygroscopicity. The foam does not allow moisture to pass through, so if the joints are insulated during installation, you can not use an additional waterproofing layer. Mineral wool is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture. But this does not lead to its swelling. Expanded clay also slightly absorbs moisture.
• Flammability. In this plan basalt insulation- perfect option. It does not burn, and the melting of its structure occurs when exposed to a temperature of 700°C. This quality is very important - a chimney passes through the attic, the surface temperature of which can reach high values. Styrofoam, when burned, releases substances harmful to humans.

Mineral wool can be used to insulate almost any surface, even uneven ones. It is produced in soft slabs or rolls. It is desirable to use a material having a metallized heat-reflecting surface. Mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. It is laid tightly between the beams, without jamming, without cracks. This is an inexpensive, but durable and effective option.

Work requires some precautions: goggles, gloves, and allergy sufferers are advised to use respirators.

Layers are laid in the same sequence:

• vapor barrier;
• mineral wool;
• vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

The floor film is overlapped, and the joints must be either glued or fixed through wooden slats with staples using a construction stapler. The thickness of the layer is selected based on the heat engineering standards for each specific region.

On a note

Warming and soundproofing the floor with cotton materials is considered the simplest and most effective solution.

stone wool

Mineral wool slabs today are often replaced with stone wool. Unlike mineral wool, which is often made from low-grade slag-basalt using bituminous binders, stone wool is an environmentally friendly material.

This insulation is distinguished by excellent characteristics - both technical and operational. The unique structure of the internal structure stone wool: random arrangement of fibers, provides an effective thermal conductivity of 0.036-0.045 W / m * K. It significantly surpasses insulators of its class in these indicators, perfectly protects against temperature changes and guarantees microclimatic comfort.

Thermal insulation of tiles

The principle of insulation of precast concrete slabs or monolithic floors similar to the same process in the case of beam type. True, since the vapor permeability of reinforced concrete slabs is quite low, it is not necessary to perform vapor barrier on the "warm" side. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated taking into account the type of carrier board. Tiled, having a flat surface, is able to carry a large load.

How best to insulate

Let's start with the fact that the plates can be installed wooden beams and place a heater between them. It can be backfill materials or mats of various types.

Mounting technology

To install mineral wool, you will need to first prepare the attic. To do this, remove everything superfluous from there. The surface of the subfloor is cleaned from dust and dirt. If this wood flooring- it is recommended to install a layer of waterproofing.

It is best to use rolled polyethylene foam for this. This film for floor insulation, in addition to thermal insulation properties, has almost zero moisture absorption. A slight thickness (2-4mm) will not affect the increase in the insulation layer.

It is important to choose the right thickness basalt wool- it should not exceed the height of the log, taking into account the waterproofing layer. Often, models with a thickness of 50 mm and a density of up to 30 kg / m³ are used.

The installation technology consists in the implementation of the following stages of work.

• Preparatory work. Before installation, the chimney pipe must be insulated. This is necessary to prevent direct contact its surface with a heat insulator. The best option- make a small circular masonry of refractory bricks around the pipe.

• Installation of insulation on the floor should be carried out only after the installation of thermal insulation on the inner surface of the roof slope. This additional measure will significantly improve the rate of thermal energy conservation not only in the attic, but also in the whole house as a whole.
• Installation of waterproofing protection. As mentioned above, it is best to use polyethylene foam for attic waterproofing. It should be located on the entire surface of the subfloor, including on the floor beams. The joints are isolated with a special adhesive tape.

For fastening, you can use double-sided adhesive tape, but you can not use a construction stapler or nails. This may lead to leakage.

• Installation of a heat insulator. Proper insulation the floor of a cold attic begins with a miscalculation of the amount of material. The main indicators are the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the distance between the beams. The latter is necessary to select the optimal model of insulation. The width of standard plates is 600 mm.

If the distance between the floor elements is greater, you need to use a roll type of mineral wool. Depending on the manufacturer, its width can reach 1 m.

Considering right amount insulation, you can proceed to its installation.

Roll material is installed from the roof. The edge of the heat insulator should slightly go to the surface of the slope - this will help to avoid the appearance of gaps between the various layers of the heat-insulating layer.

The material is firmly pressed against the floor surface. Additional fastening is not required for it. When the entire surface between the beams is insulated, the roll is cut with a knife.

The rest of the attic floor is installed in the same way. After that, a technological wooden flooring can be installed on top of the beams. These can be ordinary boards, the thickness of which can withstand the weight of an adult.

Backfilling of thermal insulation material

Backfilling of insulation can be performed without a lag device. Expanded clay or slag is poured in a layer of 25–30 cm, leveled and poured with a thin layer of screed. It is recommended to stick roofing material on the slabs.

It is also possible to insulate without an overlap lag using a rigid insulation. The most effective, but also expensive, is foam glass. Sometimes foam concrete is used, however, it is somewhat heavy and the estimated height of its layer should be approximately 40 cm. In this case, a screed is not made.

Proper insulation of the attic floor is the main factor in keeping the heat in the house. It is important to observe the sequence of installation of all materials of the heat-insulating layer. You should also worry about the safety of operation - a protective structure around the chimney must be equipped.