In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable is being built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.

- in the second case, the rafters lie on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.

Let's take a brick box at home as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. Do-it-yourself construction of any roof begins with the installation of a maurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read.

Mauerlat is installed flush with the inner surface of the walls. Outside, it must be bricked up so that it cannot be seen. In this case, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher upper surface facing bricks so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load .

Next, install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence indicated in Fig. 2. First of all, we put the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their removal determines the width of the eaves. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams, we use a beam, the section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.

After fixing the extreme floor beams, we stretch the cord along the upper plane and expose the rest of the beams, if necessary, pulling up the Mauerlat under them, or vice versa, laying thin plywood (you just often order a beam 200 mm high, and they bring it from 190 to 210 mm, this is on our sawmills equipment). We choose their step taking into account the step of future rafters. When using floorboards 50x150 mm as rafters, we take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, because roofing insulation has such a width).

Having installed all the long beams, we put the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to make about 1 meter. This scheme is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the pediment tide sagged on one of our first roofs, although the tides of the tide were securely fixed. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely excluded.

We fasten all beams to the Mauerlat with 150 nails, you can also use metal rafter corners and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections, makes it easier to work. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person, you do not need to make complex cuts and notches. We have already talked about this in the article "".

After installing all the beams, we lay (without fixing) boards on them, you can floor, you can inches. They are needed just to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter up the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.

First of all, we set the racks from the board 50x150 mm according to the level or plumb and fasten them with the help of temporary struts. On fig. The 3 spacers are shown on only one post, again to keep the drawing clear. The step of the racks is not more than 3 meters. First we put the extreme ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we put the intermediate racks. After the construction of the entire truss truss, the intermediate racks can be removed and the living rooms can be easily made on the second floor.

The height of the racks is selected depending on what shape of the roof you want to get. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the Mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.

Having installed the racks, we put them on them and fix the ridge beam literally on a couple of screws. As it we use a board 50x200 mm (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, we apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board on them, we get a rafter template.

Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and install them calmly. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being made on an old house.

In this case, we first make only the top notch at the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom gash, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that having installed one rafter, we immediately put the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend it).

When the length of the roof slope is large and the standard 6-meter board is not enough, there are two ways to go. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, we had 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of boards 7.5 meters long cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.

According to the second method, you need to splice two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section with a length of 1.5 - 2 meters. See the figure for how this is done. The joint is best done at the bottom, and under it it is necessary to install an additional rack.

We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. For fastening to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal mounting plates and self-tapping screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use brackets. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it wrong. The bracket must work in tension. Below on the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.

Strengthening roof truss, we begin to deal with gables. First, we put additional racks, which will be the gable frame (Fig. 7). The accuracy of the installation is controlled by a cord stretched along the bottom of the rafters. Then we make a window opening (Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you like. Please note that in the figure, the stand in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears almost any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).

The next step is filing the cornice boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The frontal board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a board 25x200 mm. We hem two belts from the board 25x100 from below to the cornices (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure outdoor decoration soffit.

Now, if we are going to mount the drainage system and use metal holders for the gutters, they need to be installed on the stops right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also desirable to sheathe the frontal boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show it in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. It is more convenient with them and you can put them after the roof is assembled.

Next, we proceed to the crate. First of all, using a construction stapler, we fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if scaffolding is already installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to put them when you make a roof, drain, sheathe the cornices with siding.

Having fixed the film, we nail the slats of the counter-lattice (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave room for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.

Then we make a crate. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, instructions are attached to any roof covering, which describes in detail how to make a crate specifically for this material (the figures schematically show a crate for a metal tile). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.

In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After that, it remains only to make a gable overhang and a gable ebb. The sequence here is:

To the protruding ends of the lathing with self-tapping screws, we hem the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below (Fig. 13);

We insert and fix the filly of the gable overhang with self-tapping screws (board 25x150). The distance between them is about 1 meter (Fig. 14);

We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). They are also enough to subsequently sheathe the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);

From pieces of the board 50x150 of the required length, we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, fixing them on the takeaways, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.

This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what happens after the roofing work and sheathing of the gable and cornices with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his home on his own. According to their reviews, self-erecting a roof is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage, having in mind a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To figure out how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, the procedure for work and the features of fastening all components of the structure.

Roof types

First you need to decide on the form. To date, the most popular types are:

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, then the labor intensity of the work will be the least, and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is mounted much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the four-slope, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular gables along the ends of the building.

Before proceeding to self-construction roofs with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. Such a system has more items compared to the previous two. In addition, there is no way to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure is devoid of gables and installation is difficult or unavoidable.

For an attic, a combined design with. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper part. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the house built more comfortable.

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate sections of all elements. In most cases, they can be accepted constructively:

• mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• runs - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• pads with a thickness of 32 to 50 mm.

The calculation is usually performed only for rafter and sloping legs. It is required to choose the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• material roofing;
• snow region;
• the pitch of the rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation, for mineral wool between the elements, 58 cm should remain in the light);
• span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case, it is recommended to make a small margin.

If you do not want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you intend to make a warm roof, then the height of the section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, the installation of a counter-lattice (counter-rail) is provided.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (the dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, wood treatment with an antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof with the help of racks, struts and puffs;
7. waterproofing;
8. crate;
9. provision of ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. cover installation.

Fixing the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fixed, care must be taken to securely connect it to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown of a bar or log acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This version of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation.

"Sliding" mount wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with a gash using corners, staples or nails.

The construction of a roof made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete implies fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to put the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on studs;
• for anchor bolts.

Mauerlat can be fixed on brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are laid in the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the other to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be classified as simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Do-it-yourself fastening during roof installation can be carried out through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the edge, you need to lightly hit it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain on the beam in the places of fasteners. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After that, the timber is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete in the presence of a monolithic armo-belt.

Fastening rafters to Mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to carry out with the help of a rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both layered and hanging systems. The design assumes two ways:

• with a notch;
• without notch.

In the first case, the rafters are hemmed with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the Mauerlat. For the removal of the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But more reliable assembled frame will have if you use metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws for fixing.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the frame overhang is provided by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, use persistent bars or boards. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Fastening rafters to the wall

The frame made must be fixed to the box of the building - this will not allow a strong gust of wind to tear off the roof. To do this, it is necessary to take as a rule the use of a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg at the place of support on the Mauerlat, and after that the wire is attached to the wall on an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in advance in masonry.

For wooden house can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

System Gain

How to strengthen the frame with spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this, struts and racks are used. It is necessary to make reinforcement taking into account the layout, it is important that these elements do not interfere with the stay of people and harmoniously fit into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. Racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They are allowed to be installed on the underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between the walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce thrust. Because of him, the rafters can simply disperse. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two puffs, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails or studs.

At the top, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross section of 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

crate

Before starting work at this stage, it is required to lay a waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor-diffusion moisture and wind-protective membrane. It costs more than polyethylene film, but guarantees more reliable protection. Your home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fixing the crate. The type depends on the chosen roofing material. For metal, a sparse crate made of boards 32-40 mm thick will suffice. Under bituminous tiles, a solid crate of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood is needed.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding to the stage of laying the roof, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect the structure from mold, fungus and destruction.

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the eaves (the filing of the cornice is made with a rarefied board or special perforated spotlights);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge (for this, a ridge and / or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roofing

The type of roofing is selected from aesthetic and economic considerations. It is also worth studying the offers of manufacturers and finding out the permissible slope. For example, bitumen shingles are not recommended for laying at a slope of more than 45 °.

The wall material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

The final stage of the construction of any building is the construction of the roof. This design refers to important parts of the structure, which should reliably protect it from the penetration of precipitation, wind and cold. The methods of mounting individual roof elements primarily depend on the type of construction chosen for the house.

One of the most common design options is a gable broken mansard roof. Source hi.decorexpro.com

Different types of roofs differ in their design features and shapes. When arranging the roof, pitched roofing options (single-pitched, multi-pitched) are usually used.

The simplest for installation are single-pitched, they are characterized by low labor intensity and high installation speed, due to the too low under-roof space it is not possible to equip a full-fledged attic (mansard). Such a roof is installed on a building, the two walls of which have different heights. A shed roof is rarely equipped on residential buildings (usually in climatic zones, where strong winds). Most often they are installed in garages and all kinds of outbuildings.

According to the features of the arrangement, multi-pitched roofs are among the most complex types of roofs. They consist of a large number of structural elements. Installation truss system such roofs should be carried out especially carefully. pitched roofs(according to their design features) are divided into:

• attic, when a room is arranged under the roof, where the owner can store various things or convert it into a living room;
• non-attic, when the load-bearing components of the roof perform the functions of overlapping the upper floor.

With this design, there is no usable space under the roof Source blog-potolok.ru

Before you build the roof of the house, you need to choose a certain type of multi-pitched structure:

• gable are the most common type, such a roof consists of two surfaces connected at the top, the edges form two gables, the slopes can be of different lengths, then the gables are transformed into triangles irregular shape, such roofs can be covered with any roofing material, they are distinguished by reliability, durability and ease of installation;
• four-slope formed by four triangles (often different shapes) connected by vertices at a common point;
• hip, in which two slopes are trapezoidal, and the other two are triangular, they have good resistance to wind loads, therefore they are often settled in the south;
• half hip, this subtype is formed so that the lengths of the side planes are shorter than the lengths of the main ones, usually such structures are equipped in regions with difficult climatic conditions;
• broken lines they are a kind of gable, formed from four planes connecting at an obtuse angle;

The main types of construction of the truss system Source zen.yandex.ru

• multi-forceps differ enough complex design, such roofs are installed on elite class houses, which have an interesting geometric configuration;
• mansard they are equipped when the attic is planned to be converted into a living space, this type has a broken profile and is quite difficult to install, it is often a type of multi-gable, gable roofs;
• tented form four triangular slopes, the tops of which are connected together.

Online roof calculator

To find out the approximate cost of a roof various types use the following calculator:

roofing material

Before you make the roof of the house, you should decide on the type of roofing material. The load acting on the frame depends on its weight. This affects which truss system will be built. It is necessary to provide for the features of fastening individual elements of the roof. It is necessary to take into account the use of additional structures, the use of which strengthens the truss system.

Pitched roofs are usually covered with:

• sheet materials (corrugated board, metal tiles, copper, steel, aluminum seam roofing), bitumen-containing (ondulin);
• piece materials (classic tiles, slate, bituminous tiles).

Modern "soft" roof Source krovlyakryshi.ru

Ceramic tiles are the heaviest. If this type of roofing is chosen, then the truss system must be calculated taking into account such a significant load.

To equip the truss system, you should purchase wood conifers(humidity 20%, without knots, blue and other defects). Before starting the installation of the roof, it is also necessary to purchase the following materials:

• roofing;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing film;
• insulation;
• iron staples;
• screws, screws, nails.

The calculation of the required material must be made according to the drawing of the roof, on which the connecting nodes of the truss system, as well as reinforcing elements, must be placed.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer roof design and repair services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The main elements of the roof

• Mauerlat;
• truss system;
• roofing cake.

For mounting the Mauerlat is used wooden beam(square or rectangular). It serves as the basis of the entire structure and is the place where the roof is attached to the building. Mauerlat allows you to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the building.

Mauerlat "collects" the load from the rafters and distributes it over the surface of the wall Source notperfect.ru

The cross section of the beam is calculated based on the complexity of the roof and the weight of the frame. When mounting the Mauerlat around the entire perimeter of the building, its elements are connected to each other according to the cutting principle. Additional reliability is provided by nails or bolted connections.

The rafter system is installed on the Mauerlat and serves as the basis for laying the roofing pie. Be sure to provide for the angle of the roof slope. A roof with a large slope is faster freed from water and snow. Therefore, for the arrangement of roofs with a slope of 50º, rafters of a smaller section are used than for more gentle roofs. This information must be reflected in the project documentation.

If the roof is erected on a structure of small width, then A-shaped structures are mounted (a ridge run is not needed). The horizontal jumper (crossbar) provides the required rigidity, and also reduces the load on the spacer. The upper fastening of the rafter legs is reinforced with a wooden or metal lining.

The bottom of the rafters can rest against the Mauerlat with a cut end (design without overhang). If the project provides for an overhang, then a recess is made at the bottom of the rafter. Top part cutout rests on the Mauerlat.

The design of rafters without an overhang is used very rarely. Source strindustry.ru

When arranging mansard roofs, layered truss systems are usually installed in which rafter legs equipped with an additional point of support. For this, support posts are used, which are connected by girders. Additional structural rigidity is provided by struts and other elements.

After the installation of the rafter system, the roofing pie is equipped. First, waterproofing is laid, for which a special membrane is used. It must be fixed on the rafters. In order not to worsen the ventilation of the roof, the overlap of the membrane over the ridge should be avoided. On top of the waterproofing, bars (counter-lattice) are attached to the rafters. This ensures the required air gap.

The crate is attached to the counter-crate. Depending on the type of roofing, it is made of:

• boards;
• bars;
• plate materials (when a continuous crate is required).

Roofing is attached to the crate. It takes on the entire load and redirects it to the design of the truss system.

If the roof is not "broken", then the attic will not occupy the entire usable area of ​​​​the attic. Source lilyass.com

Roof erection procedure

The construction process includes the following steps:

• mauerlat laying;
• arrangement of the truss system;
• construction of a roofing pie.

Before erecting a roof, you should order a project for the roof of the house. After the construction of the walls of the building is completed, waterproofing (roofing, roofing felt) should be laid on top of them (under the Mauerlat). When arranging a gable (single-pitched) roof, it is laid on two walls, on which the rafter legs rest. When a hipped roof is being built, the Mauerlat is installed around the entire perimeter of the building. Waterproofing is also laid on all walls.

After that, the floor beams should be installed. The ends of the beams should protrude to the planned width of the eaves (usually within 0.4-0.5 m). First, the extreme beams are laid, then the remaining ones are set up (the step depends on the step of the rafters, usually 0.6 m). The beams are fixed on the Mauerlat with nails or self-tapping screws. Boards are laid on top (not fixed).

Assembled the "skeleton" of the roof in a frame house Source izoluks.ru

Further construction works include the installation of racks, for which a 50x150 board is used. They are fixed using spacers, and their height depends on the design of a particular roof. First, the extreme racks are installed, after which the rest are exposed. A ridge beam is attached to them with self-tapping screws.

The frame of the pediment is being equipped, sheathed with an inch board. Then the cornice is completely mounted. The ends of the overlap are closed with a frontal board, and 2 belts of boards are attached from below. Gutter holders should be installed.

A waterproofing membrane is attached to the rafters. A counter-lattice is made from above, and then a crate is arranged. Roofing material is laid on it.

The roof is insulated from the inside with modern heat insulators. More commonly used for this mineral wool. More expensive (sheet, sprayed polymeric heaters) are used less frequently.

Insulation of the roof of a house with an attic Source euroace.org

The heat insulator is closed with a vapor barrier (special membrane). The material protects the insulation and all wooden structure from exposure to moisture.

Video description

Visually and step by step the entire process of installing the roof and roofing in the following video:

Possible mistakes

Before you build a roof at home, you should consider the following nuances:

• it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the spans of the floor, if the building has a sufficiently large width, then it is necessary to choose a rafter leg of the maximum section;
• in order to prevent deflection of the building legs when using rafters of a small section, the farm must be equipped with additional support posts and other elements;
• when calculating the roof, wind loads should be taken into account; for this, the rafter legs must be fixed with brackets;
• the density of the lathing (sparse, solid) depends on the type of roofing.

Roof variety

A non-specialist can easily confuse a hip roof with a hipped roof. Source bazaznaniyst.ru

A complicated version of a gable roof Source yandex.ru

Sloping roof for a house with an attic Source biznes-stroi.ru

Conical roof on the rounded part of the house Source stroi-remontirui.ru

Combination of old and new gable roof on a modern house Source fasad-master.com.ua

The complex multi-tiered roof looks very impressive Source mirstrojka.ru

Video description

A few more beautiful practical types roofs in the following video:

Conclusion

A well-made roof is a guarantee of a warm and dry home. Therefore, it is important to strictly observe all stages of the technology for erecting a truss system and laying a roofing pie. To avoid the need to redo the entire structure over time, trust the construction to professionals.

How to make a roof at home with your own hands? This article was written to answer this question. Everyone has known everything about insulation materials and roofing for a long time, for this reason, in this article we will focus on how to properly make a frame for a roof.

Mauerlat for gable roof

Mauerlat is the basis that takes on the bulk of the structural loads. In plain language, the Mauerlat is the foundation on top of which the roof will be built. For the arrangement of the base, beams are used, with a cross section equal to 150 by 150 mm. They are installed in a parallel plane with the roof ridge.

The fastening of the Mauerlat beams must be extremely reliable, this is done so that the roof is not afraid of wind and weather disasters. Ideally, these actions are carried out even when the walls are being built. To do this, you need to lay the top four rows of bricks with thick wire. This wire is called wire rod, and its location should be with a meter gap.

The middle of the wire should be in a brick wall, and its ends, which hang freely, should be of such a length that it is enough for the subsequent strapping of the timber. In the event that the house project does not provide for plastering, then the installation of the outer edge of the wire must be carried out inside the solution, so it will not be noticeable.

The important point is that the Mauerlat must recede from the edge of the wall by at least 100 mm. To protect the beams from decay, only a few layers are placed under them.

Strengthening the roof frame

When building a roof, a prerequisite is the arrangement of a reliable frame.
A frame is a truss system attached to a Mauerlat. Be sure to take into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 m, then you will additionally have to mount runs.

The optimal section of the beams used to build the roof frame in brick house, equals 70 by 150 mm.

The fastening of the rafters on the Mauerlat is carried out using a special cutout, which is fixed with twenty-centimeter nails. Nailing should be done according to this principle:

• The first nail is nailed through the rafter to the Mauerlat in a diagonal plane;
• The second nail is driven in exactly the same way, only from the reverse side;
• The third nail is driven at an angle of 90° from above.

This method of fastening the truss system does not allow it to move from side to side.
The upper ends of the rafters are fastened with an overlap, it is on the other. One beam, with its end should overlap the parallel beam. In the upper part, they are also fastened with nails, although bolts can also be used for this.

On this, the work on arranging the frame can be considered completed, it remains only to lay the roofing cake.

How to make a roof at home with your own hands video tutorial

When building or repairing a house, many people ask a quite reasonable question: how and with what can the roof be covered? There are many options and methods, so the choice is purely up to the owner of the building. But today there are specific characteristics that the roof must meet.

Cover the roof with your own hands. Video

• according to external characteristics, sheet, roll and piece roofing are distinguished;
• according to the initial raw materials, materials are divided into mineral and organic;
• depending on the type of coating, there are roofs with a polymer or metallized film;
• according to the type of protective layer - coarse-grained, scaly, fine-grained and pulverized;
• according to the type of binder, roofing materials are divided into bitumen, polymer and bitumen-polymer;
• according to the type of base, a roof is distinguished on cardboard, foil, fiberglass, steel and fiberglass.

It is extremely important from all the above variety to choose the most convenient option, since one type of roof may not be suitable for a particular type of building, and vice versa. First you need to decide on the qualities that the future roof should have.

What should be the roofing for the house?

1. Tight (the roof should not leak, let in moisture, etc.).
2. Resistant to solar UV rays.
3. Resistant to sudden changes in temperature, immune to heat and frost-resistant (the coating should not deform when frozen and thaw easily).
4. Durable.
5. Resistant to external influences (dust, dirt, atmospheric phenomena, harmful gases).
6. durable.

Properties of materials intended for mounting the roof of a house with your own hands. Video

Before buying a roofing, you should find out its qualities and properties, including the conditions for its installation. Only in this way you will be able to achieve rational and durable operation of the roof.

The density and strength of a particular coating are the technological properties of the material. They are extremely important and should be addressed first. Frost resistance also belongs to such properties, which is especially important for the northern regions, since the roof in such places will constantly freeze in winter.

If your roof will be exposed to high temperatures, then the material must be selected based on the quality of fire resistance.

Each of the options for roofing is tested and laboratory research, which determines such material properties as:

• manufacturability;
• physical qualities;
• chemical constituents.

If you find out what characteristics a roof should have for your home, you can easily choose suitable option that will last for years to come.

Cover the roof with slate with your own hands (video)

Material such as slate is a fairly large sheets and has a wave shape. It is made exclusively from a solution of asbestos cement. Such material is extremely durable, but has one significant drawback - fragility.

Also, this material is extremely easy to install. But you need to handle it carefully, as it can break.

Today slate coating May be different color. Thanks to modern technologies and paint and varnish materials painting is carried out according to the customer's order in any color. In addition, it greatly increases its durability.

Slate is considered ideal option for covering buildings that act as utility rooms, outbuildings, a barn, etc.

If you decide to purchase such material, you will need to pay attention to some features. Purchased asbestos-cement sheets:

• must not have cracks, extra foreign inclusions or dents;
• with a smooth, without any bundles, edge.

Cover the roof with metal sheets with your own hands. Video

• light weight sheets;
• durability;
• the possibility of using not only on a sloping type of roof, but also on roofs with a slight slope.

Aluminum sheets are durable and resistant to corrosion, so they can last a long time, which cannot be said about galvanized steel. On average, such a roof lasts about 80 years. But this material also has disadvantages:

1. During heavy rain, the room can be quite noisy.
2. The metal has a high level of thermal conductivity, which reduces protection from cold or heat.

Cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Video

• ease of installation;
• aesthetically pleasing appearance;
• durability.

Since the material is harvested from metal. It has the same disadvantages as metal sheets.

Cover the roof with euroslate with your own hands (video)

This version of the roof is better known as ondulin. It is created by pressing cardboard, which is impregnated with a special bituminous impregnation.

Many builders, when choosing a roofing material, choose euroslate, as it has a number of distinctive advantages. It's fairly cheap, can last over 30 years, and is easy to install. Among the shortcomings, a low level of strength and the presence of noise in the house during rain are distinguished.

This option is considered the most modern. The polymer film is applied to the surface of the roof, for which it got its name. A thin layer of a special composition is applied to the surface, which makes the roof monolithic.

Advantages of bulk material:

• excellent waterproofing;
• high temperature resistance;
• light weight of the material;
• resistance to solar UV rays.

Mastic roofing is also used for roof repairs, especially when it comes to minor damage.

Do-it-yourself roll roof

A similar material is represented by bitumen, which is applied to a cardboard or fabric base. The most popular is roofing material such as stekloizol or glassine. The material has a high level of frost resistance, retains heat in the house, and is durable. And the installation method is quite simple: a rolled roof is laid on a flat surface in several layers, which are connected with liquid bitumen. In addition, very often, to improve the mechanical qualities of this coating, it is covered with sand or fine gravel.

Soft roof for home

It is made from shingles, which is covered with a self-adhesive layer. Thus, during installation, light gluing is performed on Right place. Anyone, even an untrained person, can perform such styling.

One of the advantages of this material is a wide choice colors, high level heat, hydro and sound insulation. In addition to everything, it is necessary to note the affordability of this material.

Type-setting roof

Unlike all the above options, this one takes a very long time to install, since you have to assemble the roof from small elements. The most popular type is slate or ceramic tiles. It is quite durable and attractive, so many focus their attention on it.

But, in addition to the advantages, the material also has disadvantages:

1. Of all options this is the most expensive one.
2. For laying, it is necessary to build a very strong frame, because the type-setting roof is extremely heavy.

Naturally, it is the owner who chooses how to cover the roof of the house. But do not neglect the rules and characteristics that the future roof will have to comply with.

How to cover the roof of the house with ondulin with your own hands?

The laying of this material consists of several stages, of which the first is the crate. If the angle of the roof slope is more than 10 °, you will need to create a continuous crate of boards or plywood, during the formation of which the overlap of each row should be at least 30 cm, the side ceilings should be in two waves.

For a slope angle of more than 15 °, it will be necessary to observe a step between the axes of 60 cm. In this case, the crate is made of 45x50 mm bars. The top row is covered by 170 mm, and the side overlap is carried out in one wave.

It is possible to guarantee and ensure compliance with all dimensions, including the necessary distances between the bars, using a wooden spacing. Fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws, which will make it possible to adjust the unevenness of the rafters. The use of additional bars is carried out in the places of the valley and the ridge for subsequent fixing. Any vertical connection of sheets is reinforced with boards 50x100 mm.

Do-it-yourself ondulin laying rules (video)

• High-quality installation of this material is possible only with a specific temperature regime(from 0 o and above). Any work carried out at low temperatures requires a careful careful approach. It is contraindicated to lay ondulin if the temperature is -4 o and below.

• The fastening of sheets to the crate is carried out purely with professional fasteners like roofing nails.

• When performing fasteners, it is necessary to strictly observe the linearity of all joints, both vertical and horizontal. Do not stretch the material over the surface. Before the final installation of the euroslate, you should make sure that it is evenly located over the entire area.

• If during the roofing process it is required to step on a sheet of material, you need to do this only where the top of the wave is located.

• Competent laying is possible provided that work begins from the side where the winds prevail. In this case, the overlap of the second row should be 3 sheets.

• To ensure that fasteners are carried out strictly along the center line of the beam, a tensioned construction cord must be used.

• If there is a need to cut the sheet, it is recommended to use a hacksaw blade designed for woodworking.

Cover the roof of the house with a metal tile with your own hands. Roof slope and calculation of the amount of materials

Before you start any action, you need to find out how much roofing you need. Each sheet has several widths:

• working (difference between overlap and full width);
• full (allowance for overlap is taken into account).

In order to calculate required amount sheets horizontally, you will need to divide the maximum length of the slope by the working width. Horizontal overlap in rows is also taken into account. In the standard version, the overlap in width is 60-80 mm.

Frame and framing installation

To create a frame, as a rule, coniferous wood (spruce, fir, pine, etc.) is chosen. The material must be dried and have a moisture content of no more than 18-22%. The wood is impregnated with flame retardants and antiseptics, which avoids decay processes and increases the service life.

The base of the roof is made of timber 40x60 mm and is attached to the wall of the building with anchor bolts. For metal tiles, many recommend laying rafters in increments of 60-90 cm. In the side part, holes with a diameter of 2 cm are drilled every 30 cm, which provides additional ventilation during the roof insulation process.

The roof lathing is made of timber with a section of 30x50 mm. The installation distance of the slats is 35 cm. It is extremely important that the lower part of the crate has a larger section than the rest. The bars are attached to the very top of the steps of the metal tile.

How to cover the roof of the house with corrugated board with your own hands. Video

When installing, it is important to correctly determine the pitch of the rafters and the type of building system. The indicators will be influenced by the type of profiled sheet and the angle of the overhang.

Laying rules

The arrangement of the roof and the installation of sheets are simple. First you need to determine the installation option and then proceed to the plank flooring under the valley planks and fasteners for the end planks.

The installation of the cornice strip is in progress. It should be below the level of the waterproofing film, after which the profiled sheet is laid from the end. If it's about hip roof- fasteners start from the center of the hip. As a rule, about 7-8 self-tapping screws are used per sheet, and the joints are processed with steel rivets.

Before the final strengthening along the slope, all sheets must be aligned. Depending on the angle of the slope, the overlap of the material will be from 150 mm to 200 mm.

Laying corrugated board near the ridge, pipes and valleys

The material installation technology involves the design of places near the pipes, valleys and the roof ridge with a sheet of metal, so you need to find out how best to do this if all the work is done on your own.

• Groove at the dormer window (short valley design). At the lower end, the sheet is cut into two equal parts. First, the bottom sheet is placed, and then the bottom plank, after which it is the turn of the roofing sheet.

• End plate installation. Its length is 2 m, the overlap of the material should be from 50 mm to 100 mm. The installation process begins from the side of the overhang towards the ridge, near which all excess is cut off, and the end plate is covered with one solid wave of the profiled sheet. The plank is attached to the profiled sheets in the ridge and the end board with a fastening step of 1 m.

• Mounting the ridge rail. In this case, you can use specialized smooth elements for skates. Experts under corrugated board recommend laying seals that either repeat the profile of the roof itself, or have a small corrugation. The length of the overlap is 100 mm. From the side of the sheet, the plank is strengthened with self-tapping screws with a distance of up to 40 cm. All fasteners must go into the strobe or under the skin. To improve protection, a ridge seal should be used.

• Installation of outlet pipes. All passage elements consist of an upper and lower part. It is advisable to immediately install a snowplow. The pipe diameter should be 100 mm. Ventilation pipes must be insulated.

Self-tapping screws and seals for corrugated board

The technology of laying corrugated board requires the use of special building screws and seals. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened, galvanized steel. They have a special EPDM elastomer gasket, and their caps are painted in the color of the profiled sheet. Moreover, it is carried out using thermally strengthened polyester powder, which guarantees resistance to corrosion, ultraviolet rays and mechanical damage.

Often the installation of corrugated board takes place with the use of special gaskets that perform the function of protection from rain, snow, wind. They increase the service life of the entire roof structure, interior decoration houses and insulation, noise and waterproofing are significantly increased.

To date, installation can be carried out using seals designed to fit the shape of the corrugation of the flooring. In addition, there is a special seal for the ridge different sizes and corners.

Caring for roofing corrugated board with your own hands. Video

It is not difficult to cover the roof with corrugated board on your own, the same applies to maintenance. Naturally, rain alone is not always enough to clean the roof surface. Leaves, twigs and other debris sometimes cannot get off with rainwater, so experts recommend an annual cleaning of the surface.

If the dirt is quite ingrained into the roof, you can resort to using detergents for painted surfaces. The washing procedure is as follows:

• apply the agent to the roof surface;
• give it a few minutes for the best impact;
• rinse with clean water.

Attention: do not use products that are not intended for such work to clean the roof, as the surface of the polymer and the sheet itself can be damaged.

Snow and ice are removed with wooden or plastic spatulas, but this must be done carefully to avoid scratches during cleaning.